Ever since I started wandering the planet, Las Lenas in Argentina has always been a ‘must do, gotta go there’ ski destination. But getting the skinny about this iconic mountain and finding a cheap air ticket not leaving from ‘the states’ never popped up. Then Qantas entered the fray and made Argentina and Chile viable ski destinations from Australia and New Zealand.
Eventually, I secured an affordable ticket from Brisbane to Mendoza in Argentina, (via Auckland and Santiago) including a stop on my return flight at Auckland to enjoy spring skiing on my home mountain Mt. Ruapehu.
The 6 hour bus trip from Mendoza to Las Lenas left at 2.30 am, a rugged ride on the ‘top deck’ after three flights starting in Australia and then a bunny hop over the stunningly beautiful Andes.
After being dumped in the dusty car park, I was enthusiastically welcomed by Alejandro at Guest Services and explained where the what is, and more… and a whisper that a storm was coming!
Las Lenas is a privately owned ski resort (in the middle of know-where), commanding it’s presence on the edge of a desert 400 ks south of Mendoza and framed by the towering Andes.
They have always promoted themselves as an exclusive destination winter escape, offering gourmand ski weeks, party times, wellness exotica, etc… and great skiing for the well-to-do South American hoy-paloy.
Solo accommodation was difficult to find in the resort but “down the road and over the bridge” in the rustic village of Los Molles, the Pehuenche Hostel-Adventure Lodge ticked my boxes with hearty Argentinian fare, (that means meat) a soft bed and friendly international guests. Pehuenche Hostel is owned by the Las Lenas ski school director who also provides timely transport for lodge guests to the resort in his tough Land-Rover.
Early August is the prime time for skiing in South America but my first days skiing at Las Lenas was a whole lotta rock on not much snow! Most of the runs were open but skinny and it was all a bit ho-hum. Then I saw guys from the lodge causing chaos on the long ‘off camber’ beginners slope and decided to give them some guidance to keep their Latino enthusiasm safe and progressive.
It turned out a fun day with cold beers at the end of our lesson and macho enthusiasm during our delicious evening meal. This bravado and craziness continued the following day and eventually I relented and chaperoned them up the long Neptune chairlift… and cut them lose.
On cue, it dumped that night and even in the Landrover we struggled to get up to the resort base (2256 m.) the following morning. The famous Marte chair wasn’t open but above the snow park there was cold, knee deep pow providing fresh tracks all day from the Condor Point Restaurant.
There are no trees on Las Lenas but the various South and East facing slopes offer good quality snow and steeps from the Nueva Minerva and Vulcanito chairs, the expert ‘free ride’ runs start from the Bora Bora plateau above the Marte chair.
Later in the week the Marte opened giving access to most chutes and itinerarios. Alejandro saved my bacon and for two mornings we traded English lessons for guiding services in the creamy Jupiter bowl, Paraiso free-ride terrain, and down the steep Marte gully.
Skiing and boarding at Las Lenas is social, with lots of ‘boots on’ partying after long and liquid lunches in the restaurants and bars at the base. On snow the Paradore Marte restaurant atop of the Neptuno chair provides excellent non stop regional fare and the views from the terrace are perfect for sharing their beloved“ Mate” with a friend. (look it up)!
As the Baraloche ski area is a 7 hour bus ride south of Las Lenas and only had marginal snow I decided to return to Mendoza to enjoy more Argentinian hospitality and finalise my ski travels in Chile.
Mendoza is easy to enjoy being a vibrant Spanish style city. My long weekend included trolling antique and craft markets, wine tasting and a day out with the boys, (the larrikins I coached at Las Lenas) watching Argentinian Rugby at the impressive athletic park and club house.
The bus from Mendoza to Santiago takes about 7 hours, over the majestic Andes close to Mont Aconcagua (6962 m) and passes the famous yellow Portillo Hotel-Resort at the border dismount.
It was tempting to jump ship, but this trip my Gypsy ski travels were going to continue in Chile above Santiago in the 3 Valles of La Pava, El Colorado and Valle Nevada, and then south towards Patagonia.
Early next morning, Ski Total (metro Escuela Militar) were very helpful and provided a share shuttle directly to my booked accommodation in the central and hippish Farrellones Village.Hostel Chilextremo was fun and funky, accommodating “all-sorts” of locals, international characters and snow industry persons. It was cramped and cute, well managed and the food was tasty regional flavours in ski lodge style. It’s a short hike up to the main road leading to El Colorado and most guests hitched up to the base early morning and caught the local’s bus home.
There are a lot of ski-race training lanes on the El Colorado cone but being mid week, room for every one on the hard groomers or Off Piste in the junk powder. Although the three resorts are side by side they don’t blend very well, having different road entrances and use individual lift tickets. crazy?
I teamed up, and my buddy was Yoko Toko from…guess where, and she could really ski. Wowie! There were plenty of choices and we skied most runs in El Colorado and Valle Nevado on plate or mush and everything in between. (giving the easier and lower slopes of La Parve a miss).
6 days of blue skies, fast snow, high edge angles, and I was done. Then got a lift down to Santiago for a weekend of tippling and tourism.
I stayed in the leafy suburb of Los Dominicos and close to the Centro Artesanal Pueblito Los Dominicos, “the meeting place with the best of traditional and contemporary Chilean hand craft”.
With coffee shops, flower gardens and most artists performing their creations on site, Just gorgeous!
Busses going south to the alpine resort of Nevados De Chillan leave from Terminal Sur and it’s a 7 hour no brainer…maybe… as it snowed so hard from Chillan the bus eventually stopped!
Fate was with me as the only other person on board was a rancher from Argentina who rang his waiting friends at Las Tracas, eventually turning up in a Landcruiser (with chains) and delivered me to the Chil-In Motel and Hostel on the Las Trancas strip.
This village is scattered along the main road leading up to Nevados De Chillan, an easy 10 minute hitch to the car park (there are no shuttles) and locals do stop as they like to chat in English.
Valle las Trancas is a beautiful nature reserve encompassed with active Volcan’s and the ski resort is topped by Volcan Chillan at 3212m. Blue skies, fresh powder, = Big Fun, as the ‘bus stopping’ storm had blanketed the slopes with knee deep and glistening un-tracked pow.
The best slopes are above the Alto Nevados base and the 3 star ski-in-out Alto Nevados Hotel. There are plenty of Pistas de Esqui for all levels but the slow lifts are painful… with no crowds and stunning mountain views every which way, our exhausting Free Ride laps left tracks over snow shoulders, through gullys and down steep rhythmic bumps for days.
Luckily, one of the local ‘characters’ who spoke some English tagged on to me and provided an excellent companion for the Gringo struggling with slope choices and the best Off Piste lines.
Miguel proved to be a saviour knowing all the terrain, then asked for some upper level ski technique refreshment and I was happy to oblige. However the next day the resort electronically cancelled his season pass? As “he was teaching me and that is forbidden”? it all got heated at the lift and eventually went to the management.
“OK, your pass has been cancelled today but will be honoured tomorrow”? Our mutual friendship continued for three more days in perfect early spring conditions and included much banter in the casual and rustic cafe, (with the best hot chocolate on the planet) at the bottom of the stubborn Don Otto lift.
Above the top lift there is a reserved area for Cat Skiing, including riding and skiing on the base of Volcan Chillan and it’s a good start for back country tours with the local guides. There is also a very long cruisey pista run (with about a 950m drop) down through the lower forest area to the scattered resort village and the 5 star Hotel Termas.
Staying at the ‘Chil-In’ at Las Trancas was good fun and the food in their popular Pizzeria Restaurant-Bar has tasty regional flavours and is good value. They offer various accommodation options from shared bunk rooms to motel style suites and it’s all sewn together by Sarah their gracious and efficient hostess who complimented the good vibe in the funky complex.
There are many cabana-cabin choices in the Las Trancas area but you will need transport to enjoy the diverse Eco attractions in this beautiful “Bio Bio” region.
The early bus picked me up at Chil-In and provided a relaxing return to Santiago. Then I struggled with my ski bag and ya ya in the crushing Metro en route to the historic Barrio area (Universidad Santiago metro) and finding the quaint Paris-Londres Boutique Hotel.
It’s dead centre and a perfect location to enjoy the hustle and bustle of Santiago’s hip Bohemian Quarter of restaurants, bars and all that interesting Hoo Ha!. And it’s a good location for a day trip to Valparaiso and eventually the Arturo Merino Benitez airport.
For what it’s worth…..
There’s not much English spoken where my travels went. Confused, aim for Uni students.
Bus travel is timely, good value, enquiring, and easy with a big ski bag.
Most tourist prices are quoted in US dollars making some choices expensive.
The Bio Bio region around Las Trancas is full of delicious touring options?
Conception on the coast could be an interesting city too?
Tourists accommodation tax of 19% can be avoid if you pay in US cash? Ask.
L.A.M. charge extra for ALL luggage over 1 metre in length.(skis) WARNING!
When booking accommodation in Santiago make it close to the red Metro line.
Ski Total in Santiago are the GoTo ski travel specialists and speak English.
My return trip will be:
Santiago, Three Valleys, Nevados Chillan, Osorno(very south), Baraloche, Las Lenas, Mendoza, Portillo, Valparaiso, Santiago. (a 5 weeks anti clock wise spin?). Enjoy.
