It took me three trips to footprint Gypsy Ski Travels in this beautiful valley, as there are 11 major resorts and a few more worth visiting for a quick day trip.
Usually I start from Malpensa-Milano, but if coming from France Valle d’ Aosta begins at the exit of the Mont Blanc tunnel at Entreves. It is Train and Bus friendly (that’s me), however the west to east motorway makes the various ‘finger valleys’ quicker and easier in a car…sometimes and always on winterised tyres or in a 4 x 4.
I caught a local bus from Courmayer Village to the Entreves car park and then the steep Val Veny cable car to reach the resort of Courmayeur, being perched high above the famous climbing village. Arriving after lunch and in perfect sunny weather was a blessing and I had been told that getting to Rifugio Monte Bianco was an easy ski?
After dropping my bag in the snow, skis and poles out, then boots from my back pack, I was ready and side stepped up to the ski school office.
“it is around the corner and down the groomed piste” said the monitor, “yeah right” said I, thinking I have heard that before? Unorganised but excited, I let my skis slide and the bag drag, and took off.
It was steep, fast n’ slick hard and after untold switch backs and bumpy pistes I stumbled into Rifugio Monte Bianco and everybody and anybody enjoying lunch on the patio. Not the most glamorous way to arrive but it did earn a tasty Ravioli soup and a chug of local vino.
The view from my authentic mountain cubbyhole was ‘in your face’ unbelievable, as Monte Bianco (4810m) tower’s over this historic Rifugio and my home these next 4 days.
Next morning I had to ski back down to the Val Veny cable car to get a ski pass? “No, they only sell them at the bottom” said my charming padrona di casa “and you start over there behind the netting on that pista”. It really was a goat track, narrow and bumpy and for skidoo access only, finishing with a walk down the road and through the car park to the Gondola ticket base!
“Sandman, what are you doing here”? (in the middle of no where)…It was Richard Ross and his delightful wife Nic. owners of Aussie Skier Melbourne and my former house mates at Vail.
It was great skiing, lots of chat, perfect weather and we skied hard and fast as Richard kept the pace hot on the steep n’ busy tails.
We did ski from the top of Youla but Off Piste was ugly, and quickly put us back on the busy resort runs and the long bumpy drop to the cable car base at Dolonne. Lunch came fast at the popular and crazy Chiecco Restaurant and…. was just the ticket. Massivly busy and vocal, it tasted good and eventually washed down with potent Limonchello coffees. More skiing and fun in the sun finished a superb mates’ day out in this classic and popular climbing and skiing resort.
You can’t miss the Monte Bianco Skyway (with Area 51 UFO. style flying saucer pods) that start at Entreves. As the large rotating glass cabins go high to Punta Helbronner and the famous Vallee Blanche decent down to Chamonix in France. You will need a Guide and be a Compatible Group if skiing-boarding to Chamonix or back down to Courmayeur, and expert level confidence and skill.
La Thuile is an easy drive or bus from Courmayeur and you can also accesses La Rosiere in France by using the high St Bernado Pass. This resort has consistently good powder and the steeper lower slopes are protected by extensive tree cover. My regional bus dropped me at the lift base, giving me a full days skiing on most runs, including the easier pistes of La Rosiere and the black pistes off Chaz Dura back down to La Thuile in the cold packed powder.
And my late Panini-snack and tipple at Bar du Lac on the Piccolo San Bernado pass kept me warm til the bitter end.
Note. There is a Rifugio on the Piccolo Pass which has rooms, but my suggestion would only be in the spring’ as it can be f……freezing up there!
Courmayeur is quite the party resort and the weekend fun spins from the ICE bar Cristiana at Plan Checrouit. It is also a pizzeria-restaurant and they do offer half board and rooms at a reasonable (but noisy) rate. Best of all, the gondola back to the stylish Courmayeur Village runs till very late every night.My stay at Rifugio Monte Bianco on the slopes of Courmayeur was out standing. Ski in-out, friendly managers, delicious local dishes and interesting families and guests. It’s good piste skiing and there is outstanding Off Piste challenges in your face, each way you look, and they say the weather patterns and temps are considerably better (warmer) than over the hill in Chamonix?
It is the pivot for all snow sport activities and a great base for touring other resorts with your own wheels.
It’s only an hour to Aosta by bus and this is a great strategic stop when skiing and travelling in the Valle d’ Aosta. It’s busy during the weekends but mid week is ideal for skiing at Pila, Crevacol or even gorgeous Cogne.
The small city centre is a mix of cute…ish, stylish, and affordable shopping, restored Roman ruins and busy Market (clothing) days. The Pila Resort telecabina access is walking distance from the main street and beside the huge and modern Italiano Supermarket. (serving great Coffee and Panini in the cafe.)
Pila is a reliable snow resort and very popular with the Brits. There are no trees on the steep upper slopes but they do offer some viz protection on the runs around the resort village. Tip top is Couis 1 at 2472m. And for a rowdy and classic regional lunch see Antonio and Lella at Lo Baoutson mid mountain.
Staying in Aosta is the go, try the ‘old school’ La Belle Epoque Hotel for value and the historic roman city is ideal for visiting the Crevacol slopes that go under the San Bernardo pass road (true). OR enjoy a day trip to the beautiful resort of Cogne in the Parco Grand Paradis.
They only have two chairlifts and a couple of red and black runs but it is quite surreal on the steep slopes protected by trees. Cogne is famous for X country skiing and the tight village is very stylish and…moderately expensive, confirmed when my day was consummated in the La Cave de Cogne Enoteca, Gastronomia.
The Aosta Bus station is conveniently opposite the elegant Railway station and both offer ‘Go to Anywhere’ options in Europe and staff that are very helpful with timetables–connections and offers.
In the middle of the Aosta Valley the options become excessive. There are three valley fingers stretching up to the Alps and book ended by Monte Cervino (4478m) and Monte Rosa (4634m).
From Chatillon-Saint Vincent it goes : Torgnon. Chamois. Valtourneche. Breuil- Cervinia. From Verres it goes : Brusson. Champoluc..Frachey. From Pont-saint Martin it goes: Gressoney Saint Jean. Gressoney-A-Trinity. Stafal. Then there is Alagna, the FreeRide capital of Italy and the Go To point being Ivera or Novara (bus or vehicle only) via Varallo.
You can also ski-travel them all (perhaps) in the spring with a mountain guide? Choices, Choices….Just make good ones and only with a Local Guide who knows the routes. Have Fun!
However you can comfortably ski most runs from one village and my choice is Stafal or Gressoney-A-Trinity. (Stafel only has two hotels). Or Alagna if your gang (family or friends) are all solid skiers. The No-Go in winter is: from Champoluc to Chamois or Valtournenche, Cervinia.
I have always stayed at Alagna Valsesia. It has two very long and steep Cable Cars with a 5771ft.drop, 1+1 chairlifts and endless Off Pista when the snow is light, and with a Guide please. From the top station you can ski down to Stafal or Gressoney, or continue west to the Champoluc area as this handsome mountain region has excellent skiing and riding for all levels.
Champoluc does have more easy-intermediate slopes, Gressoney A Trinity has trees and is best in poor light and bad weather and Alagna offers the scare factor, if that pulls your chain?
The secret to enjoying this region is making good decisions all the time regarding the Weather and Visibility. When the weather really goes tough you need to be on your home base side. Alagna or Gressoney. If they shut the Cable Car on the Alagna side or the Gondola going up from Stafal due to high winds, you could end up with an extra Hotel tab or a HUGE Taxi bill to get home!
Alagna is my comfort zone. It is hard to get to, the village is small and personal, it attracts experienced and sensible skiers and boarders and is not for every one. There are enough choices of Hotels and BnBs close to the lift station and casual restaurants offering value for money. Try Baita Ristorante – e piatti locali) or the excellent Pizzeria Restaurant Minera.
Monte Rosa towers over you when skiing from Alagna and where you ski is up to you, and usually consistent without surprises.
There are a number of Refugio’s in the region, Orestes Hutte Gressoney, La Minera Alagna, and ski in-out Rifugio Citta Di Mortara Grande Halte on the Alagna slopes.
I missed the last bus from Varallo to Alagna on my first visit, while enjoying the “Chaotica” in the Railway Station Bar-Cafe! Eventually being saved by the friendly locals who drove me to the kind hospitality of the ‘time warped’ Albergo Monte Rosa Hotel near by.
The early school bus will get you down the valley from Alagna to Novara and then a local train will alight you at the magnificent Centrale Milano Station… for everywhere?
