The bus from Estacio del Nord in Barcelona is a calming 5-hour vista up through the Val D’Aran Valley, eventually arriving at VIEHLA. Then connects with a local bus to Salardu Village and stops below historic Refugi Rosta. The new owners Ramon and Miguel greeted me with the traditional h..“Ola”, a beer at the bar and much chat about being their first International guest “yardy-dar-da” and the 2 plane, 2 metro, and 2 bus journeys of about 32 hours!
Baqueira Beret, Spain’s biggest resort is 4 km up the road and a 10-minute bus ride to the gondola or quad chair. Slick and imposing the Baqueira Village Centre ticks all the boxes, it’s expensive but worth it… for those who can?
2023 was a difficult season in Europe but Baqueira’s 4 linked ski areas mostly face north, ensuring quality pow On and Off piste. Steeps? Plenty. (good enough for the opening round of the 2023 Freeride World Tour).
Beret’s 1850 slopes provided a great ‘first day dial up’ in the warming sun and a perfect view from the Blanhiblar Rotunda to enjoy a scrummy “Bikini” Toasty and liquid hot chocolate!
The stylish Audi Quattro Bar at the base tandems with the cafeteria and the slopes over the ski-bridge frame the classic valley view of the Baciver and Baqueira slopes.
Race training and Slope side freestyle features are prominent on the steep Stadium slopes above the busy deck and the popular area is serviced by 7 chairlifts and a poma (you can drive-park at Beret 1850 Base Lodge and above the Moet Champagne Bar-Restaurant).
On day two I relented…and skied back to the posh and very agreeable Sushi Bar and Grill.
A flute of crisp Moet and a stylish plate of fresh Tuna was a gourmand treat and calmed my exhausting day on the steep Baciver face.
Refugi Rosta AK.“Alenieve Ski House” is a Hoot! Anciently eccentric with a modern twist? 3-4 stories of mountain history and passionate staff making this new business a success.
Most of the beautiful wooden floors are cock-ied, bowed, and well worn, with a balustrade up to the guest lounge and funky rooms imparting a sensual feeling of endless ‘wear with care’.
And the 200-year-old fireplace burning olive tree roots made a wonderfully cosy ambiance each evening throughout the dining and bar area.
For the next few days, I skied all the resorts: Beret 2516m, Baciver 2610m, Baqueira 2516m, and breath-taking Bonaigua to 2656m. Miguel also showed me his secret shots as we traded Instructor philosophy and the nuances of Spanish vs Anglo ski coaching.
Baqueira Beret is a BIG resort (46 + lifts) and took 5 ‘blue sky days’ to enjoy the 4 interconnecting mountains. All with colour-specific terrain poles, safety ropes clearly positioned and large resort signs (in Spanish) at the top of each lift. And each mountain is anchored by a comfortable and stylish Cafeteria or Restaurant-Cafe-Bar combo.
The historic village of Salardu sits beneath the imposing Sant Andreu Church and is a popular ‘Apres Stop’ for the Vinoteca-Gris bar-bistrot, Seg’IN cafe-bar, and the delicious and very accommodating char grill Eth Bot on Plaza Major.
And soon the Alenieve Ski House…AK. Refugi Rosta, will offer their tasty South American Tapas on their spectacular deck. Yummy!
Saturday is the day to go shopping in Vielha’s lux n’ sporty shops….and avoid the hideous congestion on the road up to Baqueira. Remember, it is Spain and most stores close from 1 pm till 4, then trade til around 9…and the local buses run on Spanish time?
The weather continued to hold, Blue sky’s and a cool breeze providing endless grippy steeps and untracked pow off Bonaigua’s high Ts, but after seven perfect days, it was time to move on.
Getting to Benesque from Vielha is a mission, being only 70 km southwest of Veilha and about a two-hour + drive without road-snow closures. However, as gypsy travellers use public transport and the regional buses only run up and down the steep n’ narrow valleys, all connections are down in Lleida. (the olive oil centre).
Arriving in the dark is not recommended anywhere, but when entering Benesque I noticed Hotel Anton’s twinkles and a quick Bag-Drag to the front door got me settled in my comfy solo room.
Then after asking “what time is the shuttle to Cerler Ski Resort tomorrow” the receptionist gave me a very vague stare?
At breakfast I collared a couple of Likely Lads who said “jump in, we are leaving in Five”… and after a 15-minute blast we kicked on our skis at Cerler’s Ampriu 1900 Base, before heading up to Collado del Amrpriu and the steep Gallinero face topping out at 2728m?
Cerler is ‘Up There’ with the best, smaller but challenging, and the early spring snow was firm on perfectly groomed and endless rolling pistes. It’s also a popular Alpine Touring hub and Mountain Climbing region with well-established trails and routes.
Kicking back at Cota 2000 is “the meeting place” at Cerler and where I met hard-core Christina from Madrid, who knew all the best lines and times to enjoy the softening Off Piste shots and lower tree trails. Including the last few runs under the El Molina chair down to Cerler 1500 before they closed. We teamed up for a couple of mornings, covering most of the lift-accessed slopes using her local’s knowledge and fast company.
Benesque is a very stylish and beautifully preserved mountain village and Hotel San Anton was great value. It’s well positioned and my half board (breakfasts and dinners) were tasty and served with a large Rioja before the Spanish armada descended! (it was still school holidays).
Other hotels recommended: Hotel Solana the bar-cafe-restaurant on the plaza and the Sommos Hotel ‘Aneto’ (a modern 4-star) with parking, gym, pool, and a social Front Bar. They also run shuttles up to Cerler. Bravo! Or for ‘budget n’ cool’ try El Pilar in the main street.
Travelling from Benesque to Candanchu Resort on a Sunday was a leap of faith. Eventually solved by the gracious “i” manager. She checked all connecting bus timetables and gave me a scribbled note with departure times, arrival times, wait times, and the last Yellow Bus from Jaca to Candanchu. With a driver who spoke some English and assured me the stop was less than 100 meters from Albergue El Aguila, my new home for the next 4 days.
El Aguila is a traditional family Refugi and caters mainly for school groups in February. This week was a teen group of 54 (with rather strict teachers) downstairs and ME upstairs in a quiet private room, with perfect mountain views. Best of all it was a 50-metre walk down to the two fastest chairlifts serving Candanchu’s steep front side and the access chair to the ‘Sky-High’ La Tuca bowl.
The outstanding Tuca Blanca bowl (2300m+) has only one chair and exit poma, with steep packed pow pistes, manageable un-groomed fall lines, and lots of Fun in the Sun with a Big Vibe!
And the Ski Club style Cafe-deck is very laid back… serving beers, decent hot chocolates and more of those tasty ‘Bikini Toasties’ with frites.
On my second day, I hooked up with an I.T. Guru from Majorca and a regular at Candanshu.
We skied all over the resort and especially in the Zone Rinconada area using lifts from the Pista Grande base. Richard is a class skier and knew all the best options including the Funky Bar and Restaurant above the ho-hum Base building for our late lunch. As the weather was turning the fresh snow into wet “Posa”? (Spanish slange)…have a guess).
Next morning I visited the magnificently restored and iconic CanFranc Railway Station. Then bussed up to the bleak ASTUN Resort, the 70’s built ugly sister of the ‘pequena’ Candanchu village. Eventually finishing my snowy exploration day in front of the Spanish National Military Academy that anchors this mountainous region.
Carla and hubby-chef Liues are the perfect hosts at El Alguila and I thank them for my fun and good value stay with flavoursome mountain dinners and local vino. If booked or you need more hotel comforts: try Hotel Tobazo. (with perfect views and a chairlift extension… next door).
Candanchu is definitely a 3-4 day mid-week must, with a day option at Astun. It’s also an easy bus trip to Panticosa-Formigal, Spain’s second biggest ski area. And the longish lunch stop in classy Jaca provides enough time to enjoy the ‘designer swish’ Pasteleria Vincelle on the plaza.
The Avanza Bus dropped me in cute Paticosa and after dragging my ski bag through the popular Navarro Cafe and Bar I found the delightful foyer and lounge of Hotel Navarro.
Unpacked, and then walking down the surprisingly steep main street to the Gondola on a blanket of fresh snow was exciting, and a ‘heads up’ for an early morning start.
It was boot top pow when I slid over to the quad chair above the Gondola exit and just enough flat light to spook most skiers unfamiliar with the terrain, including me! And the big drop-offs from cat tracks winding around treeless steeps made my first run from the top…my last!
Under the Gondola, I found decent visibility in the lower trees and plenty of un-tracked shots, as most were hanging out for the wispy mist to lift. Three gondola rides and varying lines did provide excellent skiing but eventually, I succumbed to ‘seeing more’ and called for an early cafeteria lunch.
Pantacosa is a classic Prynees Village perched on a sunny mountainside, with a busy Gondola and a roadside boardwalk offering skier everything…and plenty of Cin Cin relaxing too.
As my second day was still a bit skiffy up top and chilled on slow chairs the lower freshies and fast gondola ensured cosy-fun and a diverse days skiing.
Next day the Formigal Base (an easy 30min bus ride) was rowdy, with everyone dressed to cope with -17 temps and a howling blizzard swaying the gigantic 8 Pack Chair lift like a kite on a string. After two murky ‘front-side slick’ I was “outa here”… for a delicious hot chocolate and cake, then grabbed the revolving bus over the road to Formigal Central.
It’s a purpose-built and modern resort. Mostly Hotels, and Apartment blocks above a limited and rather soulless centre.
A chatty coffee with the ski guru-tuner (Ski4U) helped me establish a positive plan for tomorrow but the temps would stay in the -20s!
Formigal’s slopes are defined by Core Zones in 4 valleys and the testy Portalet Zone (with the RAT-TRACK) on the border with France was closed due to the ferocious winds.
Regardless, under the Pico Tres Hombres peak (2267m) the Zones around Sextas, Sarrios, Izas, Cantal, and solo Anayet gave me plenty of challenge and miserably cold fingers.
Most of the Zone skiing is in the snow bowls, with Off camber slopes, Steep fall lines and two very “Experto Solo” poma’s towing desperado’s up to the edgy summits.
It was a great day, even with half the ‘expert terrain’ closed and my phone camera asleep!
My Take: Formigal and Panticosa deserve 5 days with good weather for testy skiers and maybe staying in the village of Sallent de Gallego? Or if skiing both resorts, in cute Panticosa at Hotel Navarro, it’s very comfortable, good value and fun with the local’s Cafe adjoined.
After staying an extra night, expecting a weather change…NOT, Corina (the owner of Hotel Navarro) Ubered me in her Porsche to Huesca, to connect (just) with a bus to Viehla and back up to Salardu. To sneak another week of blue-sky days with fresh spring snow with Miguel and enjoy my newfound Spanish digs Alanieve Ski House…AK Refugi Rosta.
Our 4-hour daily focus (without lift lines) was plenty for this aging teenager and that included the de rigueur coffee n’ cake at Cafeteria 2200 on Baqueira. Or Cerveza Mocosos (beer n’ brats) at the TC.1500 Bar after hammering the gondola’s signature slope in spring snot.
Time to explore…and adjust my new ski boots?
My first call was on Javi and Xabier at their FeeL FIT Boot Fitting Shop in Vielha. Cin Cin Mates! My Dalbello Race-Sport boots are marvelous with no pressure points in the toe box, even-flexing on both tongues and snug-as around my heels. (after 6 visits to fine-tune them).
Diverging a bit…they cultivate Sturgeon fish in the crystal-cool mountain streams above Vielha. And now distribute three different qualities of NACARII high mountain Spanish Caviar to selected bars and gourmet restaurants. “Huevos de esturion”. Put it on your bucket list!
Fancy staying in Veilha with private parking and close to the ski bus stop? Try Hotel El Ciervo off the original village plaza. It’s very cute and euro mountain stylish. Book well in advance!
Renting skis-boards-boots? “Monitor” in Baquiera Village is easy to find and has a premium selection. Free storage (if using the bus) and model-brand switching depending on conditions.
B.A.R.C.E.L.O.N.A.
to get in the mood…google-u-tube Montserrat Caballe and Freddie Mercury’s “Barcelona”.
After catching the civilised 9.15 am bus in Veilha and a bag-drag down La Ramba, I eventually found Pension la Calma in a quaint alleyway behind Plaza Reial. (the bulls-eye of Barcelona).
Even in early spring, this town was heaving… with snake lines from every European school riding the waves on elevated Rambla and having FUN! Tourist kitsch, Football frenzy, and Gourmand gluttony… it’s everywhere.
To celebrate…well everything, I walked to the famous Bogueria Markets and gorged on the tastiest and freshest seafood Paella ever! Perfectly balanced with a fresh Albarino Vino and eventually complimented with a delicioso Crema Catalana.
My first adventure was down to the harbour and eventually found a ‘hole in the wall’…
“Gran Torino garage bar and kitchen”. It’s cool and charmingly chaotic, with fresh n’ healthy anytime choices, good coffee and relaxed staff. (unknowingly to me voted the best in Barcelona).
Then wandered through Port Vell, and up past the MOCO. museu to M.X. Museu de la Xocolata
to indulge in a Bean to Bar chocolate elaboration and tasting in the foyer kitchen.
The El BORN district has a good mix: of culture, theatre, art, restaurants, fashions, the Picasso Museo, and lots-a-green spaces over in the Parc Zoologio. It’s a civilised area and home to the “chic and basic” Lemon Hotel that looks good fun and has great reviews.
While gazing upon the glamorous Passeig de Gracia I met bespoke shoemaker Norman Vilalta who welcomed me into his couture salon and ‘back a shop’ workroom. All very precise, precious, and very expensive. A similar gig to hand-crafted Lobb of London but with more Vogue.
Finding funky restaurants that offer value and honest tastes is always good fun, not necessarily expensive, and if travelling solo a great place to sit at a bar… rather than the worst table?
“Topping Circus” is a Helado Artesanales and Chocolate Shop in the lively Barrio Gotico area.
Cute, creatively conceived, and impossibly decadent, with chocolate everything including tasty porn
gizmos, hand-crafted ice cream “to die for”, sweets, cakes, crepes, and smoothies.
They also make “Cronuts”? A complex pastry hybrid of croissant and doughnut fried in
grapeseed oil. Then dolloped with flavoured creams and sprinkled with nuts on a pistachio-chocolate Cronut! oink oink.
Restaurant La Cereria is a co-operative “Gastronomico Vegetariano”. It’s quirky and offers very tasty Vego in a jumbled bohemian atmosphere. It’s 2 passages behind Plaza Reial on Baixada Sant Miguel and situated in an old candle factory and covered alleyway.
I went back on my last evening to taste the ‘perfect’ Lemon Pie and indulge in more of the local Orujo with the gregarious barman-waiter-manager… a fun night to say “Adios Barcelona”.
Ski ya,
Murray Sandman. ak MuzzA.
2023
My “Travel Thanks” go to ifly.net.au (you can even ring them…they will talk to you) for a sharp return flight from Brisbane to Barcelona. And as always, the gracious and calming Singapore Airlines cabin crew on the one-stoppers.