Fast and punctual Swiss express trains make Milano to Zermatt picturesque and very pleasant and after arriving at Brig I schlaped my ski bag and boot pack off the train into the rather hip Bahnhof restaurant and cafe. Lunch wasn’t particularly memorable, (tagessuppe, breads and a cappuccino) but the price was…“get used to it mate, you are now in Switzerland”!
Then at exactly 2.13 pm my mountain ‘clickity-clack’ cog train left the bus station platform (true) for the ZERMATT Bahnhofplatz.
There are no cars in Zermatt (a blessing) and the station is centre stage in the historic village, but you’ll be met by electric taxis plying for your dollars. I had been advised to “turn left and walk to the local bus stop, then get the free red bus to my simple hotel” (an oxymoron in Zermatt as single rooms still command a stiff premium).
My Kiwi ski buddy and his brother Brian had arrived earlier from Flaine and after the usual social pleasantries we wandered down to the local pub to “Cin Cin” and discuss our next two weeks skiing in the Swiss Rhone Valley at Zermatt, Zinal-Grimentz and Verbier.
Next morning the golden hue on the iconic Matterhorn was picture pretty and after a stolid Swiss breakfast we were on the first ski bus to the Gondola, then up to Furi and on to Trockener Steg station. With glistening fresh snow and in the first cable car our sights were firmly set on getting to the top and skiing down to Cervinia in Italy.
“No” (the coach spoke!).” We need a warm up run down to Furi in the fresh tracks first and will still beat ‘the slack risers’ up to the new Matterhorn Glacier Gondola” (interior designed by Pininfarina of Ferrari fame no less). We didn’t wait for a glass bottomed Swarovski blinged cabin, but did ride in lux leather comfort to the 3821 metre station, then climb up the observation tower. Check it Out!
At this height the weather can change quickly and there were still avalanche precautions being conducted on the Italian side of Plateau Rosa…and I was not happy with the changing wind patterns.
After doodling around Rufugio Guide del Cervino a gate to Cervinia opened, but I again said “No”! “we could ski down to Cervinia, but with tender fresh snow and brooding sky’s above they could close the gate at anytime, with no way back”. (that means a $500 taxi ride….and we don’t have our passports)?
It was a spectacular view and fun skiing on the high glacier slopes and eventually down to the village base, (that’s a 1650 metre drop) as poor light had flattened off on the treeless alpine terrain.
Catching a train seemed a fun idea… so we caught the gondola from Furi to Riffelberg and then climbed aboard Zermatt’s unique mountain cog train, swooshing up to Gornergrat bahn. (3089 metres).
Now on a fast ‘Tour de Zermatt’ we skied the glacier regions of Gornergrat, Sunnegga and Rothorn before completing our delightful blue-sky day with a tipple in the Clicquot Champagne Bar on Ried run. Eventually downloading in an elevator and walking through a tunnel to Zermatt Village.
On day two the treeless glacier slopes of Zermatt concerned me as the early spring Off Piste slopes had congealed into ‘crispy pie’ and were channelling most skiers into groomed ‘race track’ chokes with the inevitable push bumps. Yawn!
Plateau Rosa was closed due to the high winds, but moving under the Matterhorn base around Hirli provided some challenging options and eventually a decent mountain lunch at Restaurant FURRI above the gondola exit. NB.(This restaurant also has two ‘value’ self catering apartments).
Staggering after a hearty Swiss lunch we skied the Riffelap area and ya-hoo’ed the ‘itinerant runs’ down from Schwarzsee before pulling the plug and jumping on the village ski bus.
Zermatt has been voted the best ski resort in the world? It’s not… but it is a magical mountain resort and a must ‘See and Ski’ in every life time. The surrounding peaks are unbelievably majestic and imposing while the pretty village is chocolate box yummy, with all the treats! Add the history, incredible engineering feats, tenacious Swiss precision and the continuing mega investments to attract more nouveau tourists…and you will enjoy a unique and stylish experience.
After a half day window shopping exotic watches, jewellery, atelier ski wear, ball gowns… and all that ‘luxury uselessness’ I completed my Zermatt fantasy by gliding through the most beautiful Mont Cervin Palace Hotel foyer and dreaming of travelling in grand style to the Barnhoff in their elegant and stylish horse drawn carriage.
Our electric Swiss Taxi arrived on time (naturally) and with chains we bulldozed our way to the Barnhoff as the village roads were fresh gloppy snow, icy and slippery.
Calmly we then travelled down to Brig on the cog train and took a regional train to Sierre, two Swiss Post buses latter we arrived in the boutique village of ZINAL. Wow, and it’s stunningly steep.
Hungry, we had a soup (Creme de pana) in our Hotel Le Besso’s comfortable restaurant. Ouch, it was expensive! Fortunately during this easy travel day the Val d’ Anniviers region was blessed with fresh dry ‘pow’ and tomorrow was going to be killer.
It was “Saturday-Morning Fever” in the first gondola from Zinal, with ink blue skies, fresh tracks and mystical lines complimenting the ‘avey bomb’ echoes throughout this beautiful valley.
The Zinal ski slopes are anchored by the Sorebois Gondola station, with red and black runs fanning the high open faces and one black piste running down to the village. It was all GO…regional teen ski races were running, the self service restaurant was pumping (and good value), skiers were floating high in their Parapente’s and Chris and myself were enjoying cold, crisp, boot-top euro pow. That evening it was “Prost ‘n more Prost” with Swiss beer and the Margherita Pizza from across the road was….”perfecto” in our comfy loft apartment in Le Besso.
The following morning after a stylish and healthy Swiss-French breakfast we arrived at the launching pad of the MEGA Zinal to Grimentz gondola on top of the super steep Chamois run.
It was closed due to avalanche issues…so we rode the glass box down and enjoyed the breathtaking views. Grimentz is a smallish well established mountain resort with historic and modern chalets, hotels and a mixture of chairlifts and very steep and long Button lifts. (reaching over 3000metres).
It’s more family friendly than Zinal, but “hey” these two resorts are for confident skiers, and some slopes will test the best ‘go hard wanna bee’s’. It took Chris and self all day to ride the lifts and enjoy their signature runs (this did not include the Chamois Gondola run).
Our last run certainly tested our metal, my bad call put us under the Grimentz-Bendolla gondola, a wild off camber big bump heaven (not). Think… softish, irregular snot bumps with sliced boarder tracks and an exhausting and endless pitch, right down to the gondola base. Enjoy!
After going back up the Mega Gondola, and a few ‘dial down’ piste runs in Sorebois we were done. 2 great days of “Skiing the dream in Switzerland” and definitely in the ‘must return’ file.
Next day the Post Bus, two connecting trains and the local bus from Le Chable put us at the Fromagerie stop in the Big Kahuna VERBIER, my “Go-To” European ski resort.
Verbier is easy to get to from Geneva or Milano and enjoys reliable snow seasons, usually quality snow, interesting terrain choices, Mega Mountains, stunning views and endless Off Piste options.
Cable cars go everywhere, and a comfortable International mix of skiers, boarders, shoppers and ‘hooray henry’s’ makes Verbier BIG FUN.
Yes, it can be expensive…but that’s up to you. Staying in the W or in a luxury Chalet while savouring Michelin ‘Star’ restaurants or drinking ‘fizz’ at Le Rouge, Le Mouton Noir, or in the Farinet Lounge will make your eyes water, but there are value options that won’t crunch your card…too much.
After skiing the edgy ‘itinerants’ slopes (often steep n’ bumpy) and endless wide groomer’s we enjoyed Bar1936 for our ‘wined-down’ tipple, it’s also good for a Panini and Vin Chaud any time.
Other popular lunch time stops are Chalet Carlsberg, Le Mouton Noir, La Vache at the top of the Attelas chairlift and on the ‘toffy balcony’ at Chez Dany in the Clambin area.
The Verbier+4 Vallees pass additions are necessary if you plan to ski the challenging upper lifts, but the home of this monster resort is the Verbier slopes fed by the Medran gondola. It’s busy, hip and youthful (aren’t we all?) and with consistently good skiing, boarding and weather…always FUN.
We stayed at Les Touristes the oldest hotel in Verbier and next door to the historic village church.
It’s eclectic and creeky, cosy and casual, and with the best ‘help your self’ Swiss breakfast in the valley. This year Sam and his polished wife Nelly opened a Swiss(h) ‘designer’ replica hotel next door and now offer their famous breakfasts in both hotels. Cars (and parking) are a nuisance in central Verbier so ensuring your accommodation is near a free bus route is mandatory.
The Verbier+4 Vallees lift ticket includes the satellite resort of Bruson, a good ‘coffee ‘n cake’ half day self tour… Take an early Medran gondola down to Le Chable and then grab the opposite gondola and chairlift up to the summit. Enjoy the panoramic views while skiing their higher slopes before skiing down to catch the Medran Gondola for a chilled-out late lunch in Verbier. Cin Cin!
After 6 days of blue skies, packed powder, Freeride world finals, killer breakfasts and great company, it was that time again…bus, train and then a mini-bus through the Saint Bernard tunnel to the charming Roman city of Aosta in Italy. It’s a good rest stop with interesting history, stylish shops, affordable hotels and restaurants, markets, and good skiing at PILA using the access gondola from the city centre.
You can get a direct bus from Aosta to Malpensa airport but I chose a Flixbus to Lampugnano, then two metro stops to Milano Centrale and eventually my departure gate.
