The heart of this large n’ snowy region on the boarder of Italy and France is the busy train and bus station at OULX. My regional train from Torino was fast and a connecting bus dropped me at the historic and beautiful Claviere Church, before continuing over the Montgenevre Pass to Briancon.
There are seven resorts in the Via Latte region, Claviere butted to Montgenevre, (in France) Cesana Torinese, Sansicario, Sauze D’Oulx, Pragelato and the imposing Sestriere.
At 5 pm Luka arrived on his Skidoo dragging a sled, and after collecting supplies we sped over the valley floor and up through the pretty trees to the ski-in- out Rifugio La Capanna.
My cute and comfortable room was in the original building and with the traditional 50’s style lounge-dinning room nestled below.
Skiing down to a lift on fresh untracted pow is always a treat and this gave me the confidence to consider all the lift options while gazing at the confusing information board.
Then a smoochy swede offered her assistance and finished by saying “see you at the top, join us”? OK. It was a 6 day International ticket, ski anywhere including Montgeneve in France, and a decent discount for this 70year soul.
It was foggy n’ freezing on the slow Serra Granet chair and after meeting the rowdy euro gang who were determined to ski to Sestriere, I dropped off the ridge into the protected pista and back down to Claviere Village.
Then after adding the lower La Coche and Col Boeuf chairs to the mix I enjoyed endless fresh tracks through the trees and clean lines down the excellent Claviere Race Club G.S. training course.
And the Panini and beer in the XXXX Bar was…well, just like home on the beach.
My booking at La Capanna was Half board with some BnB options to enjoy the local village Bistro fare. However Chef Alicia provided such outstanding fresh regional choices and with vino carafes, we limited our apre ski shenanigans to the street bars until the 6 pm skidoo pick up by Luca.
Next day skiing from Claviere to Sestriere was a shlapp in the drifting fog!
It took the two slow chairs up from Claviere to Colle Bercia, then switchback skiing in the trees below the three chairs going down to the La Comb car park on the valley floor.
Caution…under the steep lower chair are rough ‘off camber’ cut bumps, stumps and frozen snot, don’t do it!
Relax… and enjoy the panoramic download option.
Then up the piccolo Gondola, two chairs and a steep Double T bar to the top of Mont Fraiteve before starting a blind (flat light) 700m drop down to the base of Sestriere.Now standing in dense fog and seeing Zip, I got the uncomfortable answer, “Yes, you are here, this is Sestriere”!
Scrambling into the Gondola and lifting out of the pea soup to indigo sky’s was comforting and enticed me to bomb over to the clearing Sauze D’ Oulx slopes.With plenty of tree cover, the slopes above Sauze offered good viz and heaps of fresh cold snow in the popular Freeride terrain flowing down to the ski in-out village.
Perhaps this is the best base in the Via Latte for good skiers and Riders?
As it is nestled below the high altitude slopes of Rocce Nere and has easy access to the mega Alta Mont Motta (Olympic slalom) slopes and the Mont Sises steeps above pulsating Sestriere.
Your departure time to get back to Claviere from Sestriere is critical. I left just before 4 pm and quickly dropping down past the Olympic Stadiums above Sansicario and Cesana Torinese to the La Comb transfer station and car park.
Then caught the three Sagnalonga lifts up to Alta Bercia to enjoy a “delichimo” Panini and frothy Cappuccino in the bar of the popular Baita La Coche Restaurante. Eventually kicking off my skis at Rifugio La Cappana at about 6.
It’s a Long way and a Long day!
Next morning with fresh snow and clear sky’s I skated over the Claviere golf course and through the border crossing into France. Montgenevre is a big snowy resort, divided by the mountain pass road and sits above Briancon the gateway to the Serre Chevalier resorts.
The treeless south facing slopes offer excellent Freeriding and the permanent Bordercross track provided endless scary FUN for all ages. (including me!)
After a “real” Latte and Brioche in the old village I crossed the road and switched my aspect and views, eventually arriving at the top of Rocher De L’Laige to the steeps and bumps of their signature slopes. Carefully avoiding the Italian Colletto Verde arena as I was ‘sans’ a guide.
Skiing Montgenevre Off Piste was exhausting and rewarding. A kinda giant Tiki Tour for one, with magnificent mountain vistas from each lift station and endless fresh tracks or perfectly groomed pistes which-way and down.
Getting home was a doddle, a skate and a glide above Claviere Village put me out side the front door of La Capanna and a cheerful “buona serata” from Chef Alicia.
Next day an early start and good weather got me back to Sestriere in under the hour.
Fast chairs and a steep T drag set the scene on Mont Sises with groomed hard-pack and wild n’ slick push bumps being the poison, and got boring very fast.
The Mont Motta top lifts provided a better bite, and the steep n’ grippy fall-line slalom drop kept me well focused until my late lunch.
Rifugio Alpette-Bar on Mont Sises is a chaotic self service treasure, with delicious and hearty mountain fare, all just…scrummy. And the Ice cold Beck’s went down a treat as I romanced over leather ski boots, Olympic bib numbers and other historic ski racing “cimelie” hanging on the restaurant walls.
Latter that evening one of the families staying at La Capanna asked if I would take their kids skiing tomorrow? And Why not. I had skied most of the Via Latte and a second day at Montgenevre would be fun with young teens in the Boardercross and the natural half pipe that snaked down the steep Col De L’ Alpet slope.
Two dads led the charge as we skated over the golf course and after a ‘reality check’ with the gang (now7) down two steep black groomers about turn shape and speed control etc.etc we dived into the mini half pipe.
They made it BIG FUN and were soon following “the Professor” higher up the walls and controlling their speed with more turn shape and the “follow my tracks” focus.
The meandering mini pipe was the perfect teacher, as there wasn’t much chat, (they spoke little English) just the inevitable pileups and much laughter before their spirited determination became “vai piu veloce”, “vai piu veloce”. (Go faster)!
Eventually we progressed into the Boardercross Park and after the brave tried a few giant kickers we lapped the course to exhaustion while the Dads stood by.
Skiing from L’Alp down to the road tunnel finished our day at Montgenevre and the fast traverse home to La Cappana completed my six days of skiing the VIALATTE.
Coaching young teens again was fun and with very little verbal banter the adage of “follow my tracks” worked well down the steep blacks and especially in the slithering half pipe.
On my travel day and after a delicious ‘wake up’ breakfast by Alicia, Luca zipped me over to the early bus for Oulx.
Latter, when comfortably on the train from Torino to Courmayer and on to Chamonix,… I reminisced and created a mini review of skiing the Via Latte based in Claviere.
The region is a LARGE and ambitious mixture of high alpine steeps and excellent tree protected lower choices and the tiresome La COMB ditch divides the region into 2 major ski areas.
Claviere and Montgenevre resorts both offer reliable snow and extensive mixed terrain choices and the ‘roadside’ village of Claviere is good value with affordable and fun Apre ski, Hotels, BnBs and quintessential Italian Mountain style.
Social Sauze D’ Oulx is the best location to enjoy the advanced slopes under Mont Moncrons or on the slalom steeps above Sestriere, and if squeezing in a day to ski Bardoneechia”?
ENJOY.
