When pushing the ‘Departures’ door open and dragging my ski bag into the Brisbane International airport I was confronted with an eerily apocalyptic void.
There was nobody there?… No Body!
What was going on, even the coffee bar-bistros had chairs up on their tables? Confused, and a little apprehensive I sat down in a big comfy chair and digressed back to yesterday’s delicious calm of ‘Room with Roses’ in the Brisbane Arcade.
Eventually “there was life” and the familiar sound of clip-clopping heels and the chitty chit-chat-chat that precedes all Singaporean In-flight soirees.
At the counter, they loved the government hard copy of my International Covid Vaccinations and then…Bingo I was through immigration and into the duty-free perfumery department.
(gotta smell good for all that delightful cabin service) and even on a ‘one stopper’ it’s a long way to Tipperary… Zurich!
Arriving the next morning in Switzerland was a breeze, with no Covid restrictions and a clear exit to my over-size baggage collection point. Then I waited and waited until the airport was empty. But no red Gypsy ski bag and the train to Andermatt was booked for 12 .30pm.
With my custom ski boots in my backpack (always) along with some Swiss chf. and wallet, I didn’t feel naked but being left sans ski bag was just so ‘un Swiss’ and tomorrow was a ski day! After filling in all the pedantic lost luggage paperwork a smiley forklift driver turned up, “looking for this” and carefully dumped it at my feet!
Note. The Swiss take on wearing masks was quite visible, in theory anyway? Required on all public transport, clearly posted and always in Gondolas and Cable Cars, well…mostly! My over-the-nose bandanna was comfortable for me, and elsewhere I religiously used a disposable job.
On time (always) and after one change, numerous regional stops and the ubiquitous
Alp tunnels I arrived at Andermatt in central Switzerland. (about a 3-hour chuff south of Zurich).
Pinch me, it was like landing in the middle of a ‘Man-Sized’ toy train set, with red trains going every which way and the stunning snow-capped mountains gloating over the cobble-stoned village centre.
There were no platforms on this line so I disembarked and then yelled at another train driver “where is Hospental”… replying “climb aboard I’m leaving now”!
Hospental is a classic historic gateway village, a quick two-stop (on request) train ride from the Andermatt Bahnoff or 10 minute ski-bus trip back to the infamous (steep and gnarly) Gemsstock Cable Car.
Jugendherberge Hospental (hostel-mountain lodge) proved to be an excellent choice. Owner Jueg is a congenial host and a strong and enthusiastic skier and mountain trekker. It’s cosy and immaculately presented with various sized bunk rooms and communal bathrooms that were Covid safe and Swiss fresh.
Breakfasts are hearty and healthy, with ‘self-service’ regional produce and great fresh coffee and teas. It’s good value and Jueg will happily provide tasty and traditional Swiss style dinners for solo guests and groups on request.
Note: It can be busy over weekends with trekking, biking, and snow sports guests, so get your group accommodation booked well in advance to secure a private room.
The Andermatt-Sedrun-Disentis region has four ski areas linked by trains, ski buses or road, and two start in the historic hub of Andermatt.
The Gutsch Gondola is 100 metres from the Bahnhof and the upper linking chairlifts to Oberalppass were perfect in the sunshine, grippy spring snow, and with enough pitch to get a comfy feeling on my new skis. (Dynastar speed Ti’s-166cm Race Carvers). It was an enjoyable and well balanced ‘first day’ and rounded off with a tasty goulash soup and chunks of fresh bread at Natschen above the train line snaking down to Andermatt.
On day two I extended my adventures into the Sedrun region, starting at the top of the steep Schneehuenerstock-Express that flows down to the welcoming Piz Calmot Restaurant above the train station. After Coffee and chat and lapping the Cuolm Val Flyer and the playful slopes around Milez I finally arrived at the cute Dieni train station above Sedrun.
No, I didn’t take the mountain train back to Andermatt, preferring to zigzag back through the Gutsch area and eventually finishing at the historic Village Bridge.
The busy Gurschen-Bahn Cable car is walking distance from the village centre. It’s a quick lift up to mid station and feeds the famous Gemsstock-Bahn topping out at 2961 metres. This is where the challenging Andermatt Freeride slopes start, and after a 1517+ metre drop ends back in the village.
I skied two steep marked runs from the top as anything off-piste was closed due to the early spring conditions and avalanche concerns.
As arranged “Jueg” arrived late morning and after the usual coffee banter, we enjoyed skiing two more spectacular piste runs to the bottom on grippy spring cover.
It’s here on the Gemsstock glacier Andermatt’s “Snow Farming” takes place, under huge storage mounds of bulldozed ice n’ snow and then covered with fleece.
This sustainable practice provides early winter starts on these slopes and also supplies their ever demanding sporting events. AK. King of the Mountain Freeride Race and the world class Red Bull-Super Skier Cross event.
The ski bus back to Hospental was a welcome respite…and this evening a group of Welsh ‘mountain-goats’ provided interesting dinner conversation while planning a climbing and skiing route from Andermatt to Disentis.
Most of the Sedrun and Disentis slopes face south and enjoy a spectacular vista from their high glacial locations but due to the early spring conditions, some slopes were closed. Regardless, on my last ski day, I travelled on the mountain train and exited at S. Catrina. Then the impressive Funicular, two long chairs and a steep T bar to the 2833 meter plateau and saffron pink snow? (the residue of a Moroccan sand storm earlier in the week). Creating big ‘fun in the sun’ as the softening pink corn snow left pretty tracks and them that couldn’t…built pink snowmen!
This “Tour du Ski” took an hour in the meandering train from Andermatt and at every turn exposed the immense beauty of this complex mountain region and the endless sportif choices available year round.
The heart of Andermatt Village is the historic bridge and cobble stone piazza in front of the classic Gasthaus zum Sternen Hotel. This is where the apre` ski shenanigans kick off on weekends and the best (affordable) hotels, bars and restaurants cluster. Including the Alpenhotel above the Coop, the Lounge Bar in Hotel La Vache and much latter at the rowdy Pub n’Club. On snow Piz Calmot at Oberalppass is always buzzy and also has rooms..?
For something really symbolic of this region, take a visit to the VICTORINOX Store which will make you a custom coloured and engraved Swiss army knife.
On my travel day the ski bus graciously dropped me down to the cutetsy Hospental Station (wheeling a ski bag down a steep cobblestone road is a NO no!) and the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn Express stopped after some frantic waving! past the Furka car transporter depot at Realp and eventually arriving in Visp.
Then the connecting AutoBus gave me a postcard-pretty ride up to the vehicle-free village of Saas Fee.
The Swiss Wellness 4000 hostel is just below the bus station and after a casual roll down to this hip building (with indoor swimming pool) I was registered and enjoying the astonishing view from my 4th floor 4 person bunk room with on-suite.
Saas Fee is a sleeper. A glacier high, ‘end of the line’-‘in your face’ marvel, that’s endlessly steep above a village with a walk everywhere persona.
Wandering down to the main Gondola took five minutes from the Wellness 4000 and a squizy around the village on this busy ‘apre` ski’ Saturday a good hour more.
Most of the valley’s skiing including the satellite resorts of Saas Grund and Saas Almagell are on glaciers. However Saas Fee has the only year-round ski slopes and infrastructure to hosts most international ski racing teams in late summer.
When the signage gets confusing… just head UP. Find the Felskinn tunnel and enjoy the four steep T bars from the Mittallalin station or perhaps a long lunch in the revolving restaurant at 3500 metres?
While following the crowd (with no clue) to the under-snow train I hooked up with a solo lad ‘Richard from Putney’, who proved to be an excellent guide on these high glacial slopes and reading Swiss signage. Latter in the calm of the Wellness Bar another Lone Soldier and former french mountain guide joined us and proposed we all ski together tomorrow.
And why not?
It was a Full-On ‘fun day’ with guide Frank initially bombing “Swiss Style” down the steep glacier slopes and with two wannabees trying to keep up. Eventually, everyone relaxed and gelled their different expectations before enjoying a late and chatty lunch at the top of the Plattjen lift.
Cheers and Beers, I was done!
Note: There are really interesting ski-touring options from Saas Fee. Perhaps in another day and in another life… but I did put my hand up for a beginner climb and ski next winter with Frank over the Monte Moro pass from Saas to Macugnaga in Italy. Ending at my most favourite restaurant in the one star hotel Albergo Ristorante Macugnaga.
Next morning and after the stimulating ‘aqua yoga’ class I packed my bags and relaxed on the mid-day bus down to Visp, and the connecting cog train up to….to Zermatt.
It’s only a two hour ‘Down and Up’ transfer to the posh and gloss of glamorous Zermatt, and now rated as one of the best five ski resorts on the planet.
It is relentlessly expensive for solo travellers even in the classic Banhof Hotel next to the station but without a breakfast option I booked a BnB twin room in the popular Zermatt Auberge de Jeunesse.
It attracts an interesting mix of international traveller’s and locals, on a free bus route and is a great location near the busy Matterhorn Express Gondola that feeds Furi and the Trockener Steg or Riffelberg ski stations.
On this trip my focus was to ski from Zermatts Klein Matterhorn glacier at 3883m down to Breuil Cervinia in Italy at 2050m and the upper slopes of Valtournenche.(Having tried twice before but defeated by high winds and poor visibility).
In perfect spring weather I warmed up on the glacier lifts below Plateau Rosa, enjoyed a coffee with Giuiano at Guide Del Cervino then dropped into Cima Blanche and down the Lago Goillt slopes on the Italian side… but missed the bottom gate and ended on the streets of Breuil Cervino (literally) before walking up to the gondola. Finally, I made it and even got the sticker! Lapping the high Theodulpass slopes down to Plans Maison completed this personal “been there done that” challenge and got the pictures.
After returning to Switzerland the lower slopes above Zermatt were tricky as some trails now had poor cover and there were no turning back options in the snotty and badly cut push bumps. To avoid this carnage I skied down a lonely cat-track via Stafel and eventually ended in the rowdy bar at Restaurant Furi. Day Done!
To get from Zermatt to Valtourneche below Cervino, exit the tunnel on the Matterhorn glacier and ski through the first gate entry into Italy. Stay high and follow the signs leading into the Gut between the two substantial spines separating the Valtourneche slopes from Cervino. The sunny aspect ensured the pistes were in excellent spring condition but after missing the small tunnel under the racing slope I got well bamboozled. Four lifts later and after a Gondola run I was back in Switzerland and used the scary (due to lack of snow) second gate to access two more chairs in Italy under the Matterhorn face… All good fun in the sun and using both the border gates.
My roommate was Peter Valis, a partner in the top Private Ski School in Zermatt (myskischool.com) and they only offer private lessons to established clientele and guests from Zermatt’s Five Star Hotels. Their Signature Heli-Flights go around the Matterhorn and then land on the permanent Helipad straddling the border between Zermatt and Cervino. Giving their guests the perfect choice for lunch, Italy and Pasta or Switzerland and Raclette and a dam good ski to get there.
Moving on to Crans Montana on the north side of the Rhone Valley was easy.
A cog train down to Visp, then the fast Geneva Express to Sierre and a connecting bus to Montana’s Pavilion stop. Eventually, with signs and rare English chat, I drag-bagged my skis up the hill and through an elegant forest to my final Swiss Wellness hotel-hostel. “Bella Lui”.
It’s big, has an amazing vista and is a classic 30’s style building of the best Swiss quality. Even the lounge furniture was original and oozed of great form and taste.
Eventually a few skiers drifted in and then the chirpy receptionist gave me a key.
On the top floor it had a perfect Alps view, a balcony, double bed, en suite and a large and warm ski and boot room was down stairs.
Later when they explained how to get to the Gondola. “use the private lane, go down the steps in the forest, then through the gate and passed the ticket office”… I did just that and enjoyed all the hoo ha of the last “Apre` ski Saturday” and tasty finger food.
Crans…and Montana are subtly different mountain towns and both access the mostly easy blacks and good intermediate skiing on the impressive south facing slopes.
The whole area above Sierre is meticulously opulent, through perfect vineyards and above in Crans luxury boutiques and expensive hotels, restaurants and chalets.
Montana does have a soft Casino but this bubbling sibling is way more casual, friendly and has less black highly polished cars and suv’s. (perhaps serving the Casino or the prestigious Crans golf courses)?
Indigo blue skies and varying snow from frozen-to-grippy-to-soft-to-snotty provided two outstanding days of adventurous skiing from Plaine Morte at 2927metres to the Montana base. Including the huge international half-pipe and gigantic free-jumps in the snow park arena.
There was plenty of Rock and the top Funitel was only open A.M. due to avalanche dangers. But following the sun and choosing the right slopes as the snow softened worked for me and provided plenty of exhausting challenges to this old dog.
Moonbike racing, FIS. World Cup ski races, endless Langlauf cross country trails, a specific Beginner area, the Pro freestyle park and various Itineraire slopes in the Aminone area cover most of the winter activities. And of course Lux Shopping!
My stay at Bella Lui was sensational. All the staff were friendly and enthusiastic and Edwige is the only bar person ever to pull me a crisp cold pint from a receptionist’s station? Check out the photo.
Travelling to Verbier was my last stop in the Swiss Valais region and required a fair amount of shlapping…a bus, two trains and finally the Postbus from Chable up to the ‘fromagerie’ stop above Les Touristes and the new Hotel Ski.
Arriving at my adopted European ‘home away from home’ is always exciting but this seasons the snow was skinny in the village of Verbier. “Don’t worry, don’t worry” said Sam the eccentric owner and garcone, “snow is coming and plenty more”?
“you have a beautiful room in our new Hotel Ski and Nellie gave you a special price.”? Even better, as any discount in Verbier is welcomed.
This evening I walked up to the Madren Gondola, ogling through a few lux designer windows and eventually snacking in the popular and casual “Off Shore” cafe.
As the weather was dull and bleak I relaxed and prepared for a no ski day tomorrow, especially if it’s murky and with flat light.
Next morning the mountain roof had lowered and the vis looked awful. But my late “Sam-style” breakfast was great and our friendship continued to bond with a chat about life in the Covid era down-under and the laissez-faire attitude taken by Switzerland.
The new Hotel Ski is a very stylish but simple BnB Hotel and the self-service breakfasts are mountain Swish with hearty portions and local produce (the fromagerie is next door) and Nellie brings freshly ground coffee from Geneva each week.
There is also a very hot.hot.hot. sauna available for groups or solos and ideal after piste bashing up top or relaxing before bye byes.
Hotel Ski also makes a big effort for Solo guests and if you contact them directly a decent discount is offered for mid week bookings.
Making Birch tree juice with Sam was a ‘boys’ own’ adventure in the forest below the Carrefour area. This involves carefully draining selected Birch tree ‘heart’ juice into glass demijohns in spring temperatures but this storms pow was much colder and plugging the drain holes with putty was required to protect the delicate juice until warmer times.
It continued to snow and eventually on Sam’s advice I grabbed the Gondola down to Chable and amused myself in the trees and on the race face of the Bruson slopes.
And the following day popped over the Savoleyres ridge to enjoy fresh tracks on the protected slopes down to La Tzoumaz.
Fresh cold pow in Europe mid April is a treat, and now with a stable weather window the signature slopes were outstanding, even the intimidating front side bumps off Mont Fort were rhythmic and the flowing Itineraire’s down to Tortin and from Mont Gele were sensational.
Three pow pow days, two under perfect blue skies with no wind (even at 3300 metres) and in the best resort in the world… aint’t all that bad… and balanced my trip, as most of the resorts had been Fun in the Sun but Fast n’ Hard in the mornings.
Denim Bleu skies and un-tracted Pow doesn’t last long anywhere and when this spring meringue top hardened I started pondering about my inevitable PCR. test and escape plan if I tested Covid 19 positive before leaving Switzerland?
This was the risk I took flying to Switzerland in the Covid 19 pandemic and staying in Switzerland…but getting a PCR. test which also validated my D.P.D. certificate was risky in Verbier due to a long weekend and no guarantee of receiving a result within 72 hours?
And in the event of the unthinkable, my bolt-hole would require crossing the French border, purchasing another return air ticket and all the dramas of having to re test as a tourist in France and complete a new D.P.D. document before flying home.
It took me two days to confidently arrive at the Swiss Airlines Covid 19 documentation and inspection gate?
A day to find a testing clinic and make an appointment for Friday at 10 am. Endless stress catching the correct tram back to the Pharmacie de Chene-Bougeries in rain-soaked Geneva for the test and a whopping Wise Card transaction to pay the Swiss fixed fee!
Test… Negative (as hoped) was the result and gave me a relaxed Saturday to window shop in the lux La Rue Rhone area and shout Andrey (who had kindly helped me with all the B.S. of my D.P.D. requirements) a guided tour of Patek Philippe.
The wealthy Swiss are obsessed with watches and as Geneva is the global and commercial centre of Horology most watch makers and boutique ateliers are based here. After seeing a poster of a Patek Philippe museum visit in English I returned the B.S. D.P.D. favours and enjoyed a very carefully orchestrated guided tour in their amazing four storey Museum with the recently defected Russian I.T. Composer.
It took nearly 3 hours and only persons who had booked and paid joined the private group of 20 with the English speaking guide. The exhibits go back 500 years and include exquisite enamelled jewellery, horology and time related art, and includes the history and exhibits of Patek Philippe’s prestigious watch making since 1839.
Sunday was FLY DAY. And with all my Covid 19 documentation in Hard Copy and in my trusty Motorola and with ski bag in tow, I jumped “the last train to Yuma”
(Geneva Airport)… then the fun began and that’s another story?
