Skiing “Down Under” in 2026 was frustrating, repetitive, Rough n’ Tough and often…just down right Ho Hum. Then we raced for $10.0000 cash in the Karl Burtscher Memorial Giant Slalom at Round Hill ski area and had real FUN.
However the diehard’s and those committed with pre-paid travel and non refundable accommodation dug deep, with the endless chorus of “there’s a decent cold front coming up from Antartica…yardy dar-dar” etc. while constantly challenging the sun baked hard-pack and skinny man made snow with the inevitable push bumps and glassy n’ slick slopes?
Fortunately I had “rolled the dice” after returning from an outstanding Euro ski trip and had intuitively cancelled my pre Kiwi travels to the Thredbo Masters ski week, after basking in the blistering hot Australian Autumn. This making Queenstown’s Coronet Peak, Cardrona, Treble Cone and Round Hill ski areas in Kiwi Land my only ‘must do’ visits…Maybe?
Two days in Brisbane was fun and especially at the raucous Columbian Food Festival on the streets of Fortitude Valley. Then a direct flight with Air New Zealand to Queenstown was calming, with gracious crew offering tasty “Kiwi Kai’’ and the delicious South Island Merlot softening my initial disappointment on landing. As the encompassing mountains around Q.T. were bare, with only pockets of snow capping the majestic ranges and no snow on the lower slopes of the Remarkables or Coronet Peak ski resorts. This was mid winter, and early spring temperatures in late July was not what I had expected?
Camped in the family crib above Queenstown’s harbour softened the initial jolt, and after an early rise and the obligatory quick-stop at “Life’s a Grind” coffee van I scored a car park close to Coronet Peak’s Base (commercial hub). Then it was “Puffer Off and Skis On”… Pronto.
Only the Express six pack was operating and the exit ramp was snow-skinny, not a good start to my six weeks ‘down-under’ Ski Safari? The snow guns were blazing but with warmish temps they were dishing out damp pow and skiing under the arm for a taste of fresh tracks was tricky…
After three cruzy runs with eyes wide open, it was encouraging that two signature runs on Coronet Peak (M1 and Express Way) were ski-able, and nearly fun. And anything Off Piste marginal and leading to skis-off and a ‘tussock and rock walk out’!
A cappuccino and cake in the busy Cafe & Restaurant finished my stop n’ go breakfast and with the cheerful ambience of chatty ski racers changing their kit after training in the Race Arena, I grabbed my skis and B-lined up the Meadows Express chair to the Rocky Gully T bar and race courses.
Day one finished early, with my much travelled Ti skis struggling with dull edges and the shovels showing signs of torsional softening on the rock hard slopes? All this requiring a full base grind, with 3 degree side bevels tip to tail, or perhaps a new pair of Race Carvers?
My solo week rolled on…with cooling temperatures, clear blue sky’s and the mega snow guns opening up the mountain, creating good options off the Greengates’ Chair into Wall Street and lower Eco Ally, or down the steep Hurdle to the “look at me” slopes on Shirt Front.
As the week unfolded I began seeking out a new pair of skis, preferably high performance Race Carvers or a ‘nimble’ World Cup Slalom model, and started with the posh Van Deer Slalom skis. Being a light-weight @ 67 kg’s I wanted 160 cm ski…max, but as this length was not available, it encourage me to look in the ski racks at the front of the Base Cafe’s Deck and noting what the International Racers were training and racing on?
On the weekend I bumped into Adrian, a highly respected Race Coach whom I had skied with for years and raced against (in Masters) and quietly squawked “I need new skis mate any ideas, preferably a Race Carver or a nimble Slalom model” Replying…“try mine, they are nearly brand new and are out in the rack… and perfect for you”?
Two days latter, (when the weather had gone upside down again) there was a knock at the door, with a Kiwi Post driver delivering a much anticipated box?
Yes, a two day delivery to Queenstown, with the latest Dynastar World Cup Slalom skis inside and carbon poles. Thank you George and team at the Snow Centre in Auckland. (and with bindings 30 mm. forward as requested on the race plates).
A NO Compromise F.I.S. race model that will turn “fast-as” and track on the hardest slopes. Perfectly balanced for me at any speed…and giving a massive re-bound in fall-line slalom turns.
After dialing in the new World Cupper’s on Concrete Peak in spring weather (mid winter)?
I packed my bag and drove over the Crown Range to Wanaka, to ski with my mate Chris and the Cardrona and Treble-Cone gangs.
It’s always busy at Cardrona and with fresh snow they eventually opened the new SoHo Back Bowls with boot-top un-tracked Pow. It was crispy-cold and the steepish rolling terrain which starts at the top of Captains Basin also accessed the bumpy Willows Basin.
AND these two back bowls have elevated Cardrona to being the best “down under” ski and board mountain. (Go early for a car park and skip the weekends if you can)?
Treble Cone is the ‘Locals Choice’ and the busy base is civilised and clubbie-friendly. With only two chairlifts T.C. offers plenty of challenging slopes, fast groomers and endless steeps In and Out of bounds. Snow permitting there is also tough options in the Matukitki Basin or from the Saddle Basin chair in the Motatapu chutes. Or take the hike up to the 3 Cone summit.
We skied hard n’ fast down the Home Basin slopes and lapping off the Saddle Back chair and our slalom skis made it easy, but exhausting! Lunch on the deck came early with a cold beer, and the locally made “Kiwi Pie’s” were delicious.
Done, and back in Wanaka, I packed the Jeep and took the Long Way home to Queenstown via Cromwell and Frankton. (the best choice if the weather on the Crown Range is marginal).
The volatile weather continued and the early morning choice was “ya gotta go or you wont know” as Coronet Peak now had a decent base but low clouds and flat light persisted, We found the Race Arena best with grippy snow and clearing visibility…and the deck of Heidi’s Hut very sociable.
Latter in the week my nephew Cam arrived and with his Queenstown mate we took a fast day trip back to Cardrona. (it’s an hour to the car park with the hammer down). The weather was good, it was mid week and the fresh snow was fun in the sun! And enjoyed skiing in both Back Bowls and under the un-tracked Valley View slopes to Megs Cafe above the lower car park.
Finishing the day in the popular Cardrona Pub with yummy Pizza and a Guinness… or two.
Thanks Guys, it was a great day. Cheers!
After shuffling around with Jet Boats and loading 2 E bikes in the big 4 X 4 (which I was driving back to Auckland) Cam Jet-Jumped and went home. Then it rained… and I started to look for other touristy options in Queenstown and Frankton.
Eventually finding the Snowboard Workshop, recognised as the best Ski-Board tuners-base repairers above Burger King at the Frankton Junction.
And when cruzing around Frankton enjoyed “Joe’s Garage” which was perfect for a late Brunch. Or heady Cocktails any time…it’s in the 5 Mile Centre.
In Queenstown take your pick…The markets on the water front are a good walk and the popular Irish Pub POG MAHONES pours a smooth Guinness, or enjoy live music at The Pub on the Wharf. If not going up to Coronet Peak, take the Iconic Earnslaw day cruise and relax. Cheers!
After collecting Toddy, my other nephew, from the late flight and then toasting my dad “Gentleman Jack” we came up with a realistic travel plan for the next week and only ski the best ski fields while maneuvering around the relentless and erratic weather patterns plaguing the South Island.
Driving to the Peak (with the obligatory stop n’go at “Life is a Grind”) takes 25 minutes, and arriving at Car Park 1 around 9.30 usually secured us a car park near the base. As a few locals enjoy “First Tracks” with their Season Passes and then go down to the office…and leave a spot.
We skied hard and fast for two days on the Peak and mostly Off Piste beside the busy groomers, or rotated in the Race Arena and the very steep Out-Wide FIS. Race Hill.
Toddy is a tough and strong skier and if in front I was always watching for his shadow before he blasted past! Me…being more comfortable with quick ‘fall line turns’, while his signature carve is a more open GS shape and faster. Now with good grippy snow and plenty of Off Piste options we both ‘played with the mountain’ to suit our individual styles and met at the bottom of Shirt Front.
Latter in the week we grabbed an early start (6.30 am) and dived over the Crown Range to Cardrona to met Chris in the Lounge Bar and enjoyed Cafe n’ Cake while ‘booting up’ for the blue bird day.
Starting early down the un-tracked Valley View run to the lower car park and back up on Captains Express for the opening of SoHo Basin….and the fastest groomed piste to the bottom so we could spot the best snow and un-tracked slopes while going up the SoHo Express chair.
It worked!
Eventual returning to the Captains Cafe for a tasty Brunch. Chris jumped ship early and after Toddy and self tested the new MAJESTY skis I pulled the plug and went back to the Lounge Bar.
Finally concluding another great day’s skiing at Cardrona with a bucket of chips and a “Hot Toddy” in the Cardrona Pub. NO, it didn’t finish there… but in the Hot Tub in Queenstown with an Ubered Pizza and J.D. Cin Cin!
Going north and racing in the Karl Burtscher Memorial Giant Slalom at Round Hill was BIG FUN.
We left Queenstown at 6 am and arrived in Lake Tekapo at nine. Then ‘caffed up’ took the dusty rally road up to Round Hill (40 min.) and scored a car park close to the base. The weather was perfect and all the ski runs were manicured and welcoming, including training course’s set for the chatty racers feeding onto the lower T bar.
This was our only training day on our tuned race skis and a continual banta about which slope would be used for the $10,000 ‘fastest take all’ cash prize, as the obvious “Karls Way” slope was closed. All the groomed runs were fast and grippy and most of the training gates were set for the International Racers and resembled a fast GS. course.
Skiing fast and visualising Where and What the course could be…was FUN. As all the slopes at Round Hill are immaculately groomed and the racers were only using allocated terrain and the off- camber slopes beside the main T Bar. (and inspiring to watch).
It was a great days skiing, and they opened the famous Knutcracker lift….for 20 minutes?
Being the longest and steepest tow rope in the world, with a 783 metre un-groomed drop to the Base Lodge. (and politely referred too as the Heritage Express Rope tow).
Our lunch was late in the bubbling Cafe and after hot chocolates and tasty Toasties we hit the road back to Tekapo and our cute cabin in the Lakes Edge Holiday Park. Ending the long day tuning and waxing our skis. And thoroughly deserving the excellent dinner at the KOHAN Restaurant in Tekapo. (warning…with the most expensive draft beer on the planet).
Up early and with a healthy roadie, we scored a front row car park on race day and cued for the bibs and tickets. Then attended the competitor’s meeting before warming up on ‘‘ KARLS WAY” and completing the gate’s slip.
The International Chicks went first, then Master’s, followed by the International Men Racers. Toddy looked FAST and then I dropped in maintaining a steady rhythm and a clean line for a geriatric senior on slalom skis! Most took a second run, but mine was too ambitious at the top gate and I struggled down to the last.
The Karl Burtscher Memorial Race is graciously promoted by the Round Hill owners and most of their extended family (Burtscher / Rieder) were there to present the winners cups (men and women) and give a bundle of cash to the fastest skier…who was Freddie Garrick-Smith, a talented teenager in a G.B. family ski team of 3 brothers and coached by Mum and Dad. True, and now “Fast Freddie” is ranked in the top 10 of the 2026-7 G.S. World Cup standings.
After the friendly lunch Hoo Ha and the presentation ceremony we coped the threatening southern storm and as Queenstown was a four hour drive with Lindis Pass and the Kawarau Gorge to negotiate, it was time for us to “hit the road” Jack”.
We squeezed two more days on Coronet Peak and enjoyed the fresh ‘top up’ on the race arena and the steep Out-Wide rollers, practising more race technique for future Masters events?
Now back in Queenstown and with more warming weather patterns predicted I started to plan my drive to Auckland, going past Mt Ruapehu and sneaking in some turns, or taking a diversion to the Hawkes Bay to visit my life long ‘mate’ at Rissington ?
After leaving Queenstown I stopped at the impressive HIGHLANDS in Cromwell and ‘chequed’ out their motor racing training and rental options. (and could be a great day out from Q.T. or Wanaka). Don’t be shy…have a blast in a Go Kart, V8 Muscle Car, or U Drive in a flash Supercar and the National Motorsport Museum is a must.
Then after passing the entrance to Mt Dobson and a quick stop at the yummy Fairlie Bakehouse,
I grabbed a roadie and continued on to Methven (the feeder town to Mt. Hutt) and bunked down in the cosy Tree-House Lodge. My next stop was Blenheim for a quick ‘top up’ before arriving at Picton and changing my ferry booking as a nasty southern storm was threatening to close Cooks Strait.
Arriving at the Wellington Ferry Terminal solo at 1.30 am isn’t much fun as the exit signage is confusing and there are two freeway options going North. It was cold, pitch black, and with heavy rains and blustery southerly sqawls. Add the heavy truck convoys with their weekend loads and my windscreen wipers on max all night…(get the picture) I kept going and after arriving in Palmerston North changed tack and aimed for Napier in the Hawkes Bay.
A mere 4 hours tramp, but with the relentless stream of heavy trucks with their carnival lights hogging the narrow highways and storming through dense fog, it was comforting to arrive at Bay View shores west of Napier and only 30 minutes to Rissington.
Beautiful Rissington and especially Gretchen’s lovingly created gardens above the iconic iron and timber single lane bridge at the toe of her property, were demolished in the furry of Cyclone Gabrielle in the summer of 2023.
It was a comfy reunion and after a well deserved rest we walked the new gardens and she explained how the catastrophic event unfolded and her eventually being Helicoptered out!
Including the why’s and the where fore’s as I familiarized myself with the nearly completed two lane “Peka Peka-Rissington Bridge” and the future of this historic region.
Has it been magnified into a historic tourist destination (check out the carvings and the new car parks) or has the new concrete and steel two lane bridge created another hideous logging truck highway destined for Napier and export?
Feeding ‘Rosie’ the Donkey, walking in the new gardens around the front paddock and sharing the cooking duties as we have done many times throughout our friendship in New Mexico, Australia and New Zealand ensuring a very calming week.
After winding down the Rissington ridge to the Esk Valley wineries I joined the main Napier -Taupo – Auckland highway and put the hammer down. But coping with more bad weather, greasy tarmac and more fog extended the journey to 5 hours plus and finished in Newmarket at the Snow Centre in Auckland.
A 5 stopper and 1700 ks… including a ‘breathalyser’ stop out of Fairlie and a traffic cop stalking me for 15 minutes in fog (at 4 am) south of Havelock North?
MuzzA.
1 Nov. 2026