After dodging Kangaroos eating their roadside breakfasts, we finally arrived at
Proserpine railway station. Then an officious employee insisted I lighten my new Sierra Summit ski bag by 1 kilo! “mate, ya gotta lighten the bag to 20 kilos”… on a train?
The 10 hour trip rumbled north and developed into a kinda “Faulty Towers” train, stopping at every Tom, Dick and Harry station and with friendly-bumbling crew swaying to and fro in the retro carriages while dishing out the tasty railway nosh.
A chirpy post breakfast coffee perked me up before settling down to the good company of a new travelling companion and a couple of interesting movie’s.
Flying from the tropical city of Cairns was a new exit strategy for me and it worked well.
The low cost JETSTAR flight was simple, pleasant and arrived on time, and their ticketing supervisor gave me a little bit of credit with my overweight ski bag….on a plane?
On arrival at Tokyo’s NARITA Airport I ducked down to the Japan Rail office and commandeered the supervisor to exchange my prepaid coupon for a “21 Day JR.Travel Pass”. Then booked my important journeys using the HYPERDIA web site.
Rail travel in Japan is busy on weekends and holidays so booking your seats in advance will make your travel more harmonious (and you can change them at no charge).
There is an express Rest House Hotel within Narita Airport and it’s perfect for early morning starts on the chock-a-block commuter trains.
Exiting at Tokyo Central Station at 8 30 am with a ski bag, boots in my back pack and ya ya was CHAOS, but no worry….. I found time to buy coffee and donuts before being ushered on to the wickedly fast Tsubasa Shinkansen by the gracious and bowing hosts.
Using a Japan Rail 21 Day Pass is a breeze, as life always ‘calms’ when the Japanese see Gajin’s struggling, then belting north on the bullet train was F.A.S.T. easy and relaxing.
At the infamous Fukashima Station we veered west and began a steep climb into the mountain region of snow, tunnels, quaint country villages, and the views became spectacular as the fresh snow-banks kept piling higher.
ZAO ONSEN nestles above the regions capital Yamagata and is a quick bus ride from the station. It’s a small ancient Onsen Village with a subtle pong of sulphur.
Yutaka greeted me at the local Information Centre and after the usual pleasantries drove me up to Yoshidaya Ryokan.
It’s qwerky, quaint, a time warped 300 year old Japanese Inn, and the owner ‘Chigusa’ speaks good English.
It took four hours to get to Zao Onsen from Tokyo Central and I was soon ready to ski as the skies were clearing and the snow looked fresh and crisp.
Yutaka had arranged a guide for my afternoon play and when a bright lad originally from SLC. Utah turned up we had a lot in common, as his home mountain was Snowbasin, mine had been Alta-Snowbird.
Dialling-in spanking new ‘Chams’ didn’t take long in the ego-soft powder and then it was ‘back to the future,’ tra..la..la..skiing on a blue bird afternoon in Japan, and in knee deep fluff.
Yee Haa!
That evening we joined the locals at the popular Gengus Khan restaurant and after a delicious
lamb house special I wandered back through the quaint village to Yoshidaya Ryokan and enjoyed a very hot soak in the 300 hundred year-old Onsen.
My breakfast was truly Japanese. A poached egg with soy, seaweed and rice, along with slithers of pickled veggies, a morsel of grilled fish with ginger, and miso soup.
Then followed by green tea and fresh coffee in my room on the tatami mat table.
Best of all, it had snowed during the night and my boots were warming in the ski locker room.
The new snow was squeaky-dry and after laying down endless tracks on their steeper slopes it finally gave way to push bumps. On my last run at the top of the Rope Way (small gondola) I rang the good luck bell and put a donation in the box next to the huge brass Buddha,
for good health and of course more great skiing.
Dinner was very casual, I walked down to the local Izakaya (Japanese Pub) “Toen Shuka” and devoured a tasty stew with rice and cold Asahi beer.
ZAO exceeded my expectations. It’s reasonably close to Toyko, has decent slopes, reliable cold snow, and Yoshidaya Ryokan is a gem. And after seeking out the regions traditional KOKESHI hand painted wooden dolls provided me with some terrific presents.
The famous Zao Juhyo (Ice Monsters) are unique and imposing, these eree frozen sculptures are surreal and proudly stand on the higher slopes of Zao, ensuring this historic towns motto of ‘wishing for fairness and goodness of people’ is preserved.
Shuffling from ZAO ONSEN to APPI KOGEN RESORT using the JR. Shinkansen was ‘easy peesy’ but be warned, storing a large ski bag on a bullet train will test your creativeness. Hint…(stuff it behind the last row of seats in the reserved carriage, standing up).
From Morioka I took a Local train to the Appi Kogen Station and then grabbed the shuttle to the flash citrus lemon Appi Grand Hotel.
After a quick phone call the owner of Log House Pension was there in a flash, and we returned to a stylish mountain cabin that sleeps 12 comfortably, or 16+ happy Japanese?
Takashi and his wife Shinobu provide a smashing mix of ‘Japanese style’ in log cabin comfort and their attentive service was very welcoming, along with my yummy dinner.
With snow piling up out side I hit the sack early, anticipating deep pow pow tomorrow.
The Ski Patrol stole the first shots but there was plenty left for the Gaijun, having left my English trail map behind, it was a “down is good, and stick to the black ones” kinda morning!
It was neck-gator cold and staying up on the steeper slopes in calf deep pow made my day.
A quick snack at the Red House Restaurant kept the motor going but by 3 pm it was all over, and tub time in Log House Pension’s cute Onsen.
Friday was another crisp blue-bird day and started with a delicious Japanese breakfast perfectly presented in stylish ceramic bowls.
Takashi drove me to the resort in his man-up Dinky Toy 4 x4 (there are no Hummers in the Japanese Alps) and I grabbed the first gondola.
All the runs were perfectly groomed packed powder with fresh shots on the side, except for the Toni Sailer Course which had huge powder bumps that cooled every ones ego, including mine.
Somebody wrote the song…”don’t worry… be happy” and that’s what life felt like… ‘being happy in Appi’…. and after a late lunch in the snazzy resort canteen I began thinking of my next move north.
The trip on the Shinkansen to Aomori on the tip of Honshu was fast as, (they go 300ks) and after a simple over-nighter in a business hotel I caught the 8 am JR. Bus to HAKKODA SKI RESORT.
After a social greeting from Simon’s Back Country Tour guide Michael, I decided to free ski and join their group tomorrow. The fresh deep snow did not look good, as there had been an unusual temperature inversion and overnight rain had given the whole mountain a merang ‘crispy pie’ topping.
When going up the Rope Way someone said ” this was gondola accessed Back Country Skiing, just deal with it”.
It certainly was one out of the box, a fresh crisp crust on top of a gooey base? Spread that with poor visibility and it’s … “oh well, nature calling the shots”.
The Hakkoda Rope Way has a 2300 ft ungroomed front face with two narrow marked trails on either flank, even on big powder skis diving into the fog and trees proved ‘riskay’ at best, and almost unpalatable.
That evening I contemplated ski life in Japan…wrapped in a kimono, sitting on a tatami mat next to a pretty and inviting futon, while sipping green tea after a tough days junk skiing. FUN.
It snowed hard during the night and after a stimulating early morning soak in the Onsen and a tasty breakfast I was ready to ‘stick em down the hill’ in the fresh powder.
Back Country Tours met in the foyer for a safety briefing, then 6 boarders and 2 skiers plus the trusty guide Michael marched through deep snow to the Rope Way.
Walking out of the Gondola’s top station in howling winds and thick fog was brutal.
We stomped up into it, eventually putting on snow shoes and strapping our skis and boards to our backs. (I really felt the odd man out, as there were 10 in our group but only two were on skis, guide Michael and myself)?
In atrocious conditions we climbed higher and then prepared for a zero visibility decent on the backside of the resort. Skiing around snow monsters, over crusty wind blown whales and avoiding man size tree wells, while staying upright proved testing and frustrating.
A couple of the boarders were struggling and made our decent slower than comfortable in the vicious winds and freezing temperatures, somewhere on the decent guide Michael said to me quietly,….”it really is a skiers mountain”, but this did not convince me one smeared turn.
Eventually we hit the road and a welcoming resort mini bus. With skis and boards inside and packs off, ten ‘testy’ men returned to the base, and were rewarded with a hearty Japanese Mountain Fare lunch at Cafe Central. (great value at about $10 for roast pork with rice, and miso soup).
The afternoon looked promising until we arrived at the top station. It had turned into a blizzard and they were ready to shut down the Gondola, and this would be our last run.
Ducking under the fence puzzled me, as the damp powder on top of yesterdays crud, and blank visibility looked hopeless. After groping in the dense fog the struggling boarders became intimidated, and then two of the strong riders blindly launched off a ridge and into a chest deep gully!
Regrouped, we continued to brake trail but the waiting became miserably cold and my day was going down the toilet, fast. The viz. did improve in the lower trees but crusty powder flats were not on my agenda and it was ‘game over’!
It was a rush to get my wet gear half dry, and packed…then catch the last JR. Bus down to Aomori before travelling on to NISEKO in the overnight JR. Hanamusu Express.
While waiting, I asked the JR Rail administrator if there was any “Carpet Class” beds available to Sapporo? But after checking every possible option her answer was “there is none available tonight, it is all booked,… we are very solly”, and so cute.
Being tired after two difficult days skiing and now disappointed that I could n’t get a “Carpet Class” berth, I flung my gear on to the train and settled down for an uncomfortable night in a semi reclining seat.
Then the young conductor passed by and casually I repeated my plea to travel “Carpet Class.”
He came back in a few minutes and excitedly said “YES, we do have a spare carpet class futon”, and it was in Carriage 4, number 23.
After helping me move my luggage I surveyed the amazing “Carpet Class” carriage.
People were scurrying about getting ready for bed on futons, lying side by side on an elevated platform above the passage way.
But wait, No 23 was a deluxe bunk above the majority, it was virtually private and after climbing the stairs I gasped at my bed! Crisp sheets and a cosy wool blanket were carefully placed on a futon, along with a small rice pillow, and there was a nice wooden coat hanger for my jeans and puffy jacket.
With my boots off and on the floor, (naturally, it’s Japan) I wriggled around and stripped off before sliding between the sheets and duvet.
(The desire to travel “Carpet Class” on a train in Japan was one of my original motivations to write this article, but it is virtually impossible to pre book a ticket as the savy Japanese snap them up to avoid paying a hotel room when travelling overnight.)
Once settled and with the train rattling about the reality of “Carpet Class” travel kicked in.
The futon was really thin for a Gaijin, and rock hard. But what surprised me most was the noise of the carriages bunting each other when the train accelerated or slowed down, and the continual ‘rattle and shake’…’clickity-clack’ that older train lines create.
Add lights going on when persons get off, continual boarding and alighting instructions being blared through the trains speaker system and the usual commotions from platform traffic, all while I wrestled in a very narrow bunk…?
WARNING…the squat loo on the Hannimusu Express (it takes 7 hours from Aomori to Sapporo) is a serious bit of kit from a Darth Vader set,(or perhaps a vintage SM.’spanking’ contraption)?
From Sapporo Station I caught two connecting Local JR. trains and arrived at Niseko
Station at 9.44 am exactly! It was snowing, (again?) and my thoughts drifted to powder skiing and how this day would unfold in the Big Kahuna of Japanese skiing: NISEKO UNITED.
This mega powder region is divided into four major areas. ANNAPURI, NESIKO VILLAGE, GRAND HIRAFU, and HANAZONA slopes.
I stayed at Annapuri Lodge, a popular anglosized Bed and Breakfast lodge and popular with youngish guests from ‘down under’. It’s enthusiastically managed by Florent and Moe and young helpers swapping labour for a Japanese snow resort life-style.
The four Niseko Resorts are independent but can be linked with a common lift pass, allowing guests to slide between the zones using the higher gates. However, if the weather is rough n’ tough on top (mist, fog, etc.) use the Orange Niseko Shuttle Buses, but everyone must exit from the front with their skis n’ boards and all….be patient!
Reasonable steeps, back country controlled gates (leading to steeper tree runs), and good open glade skiing are accessed by 3 gondolas and many hooded quad chairs.
Best of all, it really does SNOW A LOT in the Niseko Region, (Dec, Jan, Feb, Mar.) and often every day.
Mid week I joined a Black Diamond Powder Hunting Tour. With no clue, where or how, I was collected from Annapuri Lodge at 8 am and then we headed for RUSUTSU RESORT.
On our arrival our guide ‘Mitch’ Potter (from Alta -SLC.) clearly out lined the days program.
It would be “Off Piste” boarding and skiing using the steep gully faces and the long run outs back to the base. “give your mates space… and pay attention to the heavily loaded tree branches at face level “.
Whoa..it was steep… and deep, in fact waist deep cold Pow Pow, and with good visibility.
Massive Powder pillows, Huge bumps, Jumps, Off Camber walls and Steep Whale back spines through tight trees, gave this group a ‘big balls’ day.
Guide Mitch’s skiing was inspirational with classy, agile, fleetness. The tough young Pole Tomica took him on, but after landing a big jump awkwardly ‘pinged’ a knee and his day was done, and probably his season?
Four hours of non stop powder-pounding… past “Keep Out”,”Out of Bounds” and “No entry” signs, over Net fence’s and Ducking ropes had my tongue hanging out!
Using the two gondola’s and hooded chairs kept the fierce winds and cold temperatures (-10 c) at bay but the unquestionable success of this trip was Mitch’s choices, and his guided access to the best steep tree faces off Rusutsu’s Mt. Isola and Mt. East peaks.
After a late Japanese cafeteria lunch we scooped the last of the freshies, but clearly my day was done and I joined the dejected Tomica at the base.
Travelling home to Niseko we all discussed the overall rating of this Black Diamond Powder Hunting Tour….agreeing it was 95% + and my best day chasing Pow Pow so far.
After five days of endless pow in the Niseko Region the affable ‘froggy’ Florent drove me to nearby MOIWA RESORT and the delightful Japanese style Moiwa Ski Lodge.
It’s a big log cabin that attracts International hard core sliders, seeking affordable and authentic mountain lodging, good food and common companionship while living 200 metres from the Moiwa lifts.
Their bunk rooms, communal lounge, dinning room and eclectic bar evoke a genuine
Old School-Ski Club atmosphere, and the view of Mt Moiwa is to die for.
Moiwa is definitely where the fresh-track groupies hang out, (and there are lots of them
in the Niseko area) but it only has one long quad chair to access the decent tree shots off the back side and down the ridge line. We found fresh, steep n’ creamy lines most mornings but they are short in vertical and finish with the inevitable flat and bumpy run-out trails….YAWN.
Night skiing and boarding is popular in most Niseko Resorts and the regular snowy evenings create a festive and happy atmosphere for ‘late risers’ and those who just have n’t had enough pow pow during the day.
Getting from Moiwa to FURANO RESORT required three JR. trains via Sapporo and a short bus ride from Furano Station to the base area.
The two distinct zones are Furano and Kitanomine, and both are lift-linked with gondola’s that service two FIS. downhill courses with plenty of vertical and pitch.
Back Country Touring is popular in this ‘Hokkaido Powder Belt Region’ and day trips from Furano to Asahidake Rope Way, Kamui Links, and Tomamu resorts are popular.
A good stop is Alpine Backcountry Rentals below the Kitanomine base. (the owner John Morrell is very helpful).
Skiing at Furano was ego building in fresh, light and cold champagne powder and the steeper slopes offered untracked pow pow all day.
Travelling north from Furano to ASAHIDAKE ROPEWAY SKI AREA took a local bus, a JR. train and a tourist bus from ASAHIKAWA CITY to Asahidake’s base.
This is is the highest mountain in Japan and a ‘smokin’ 2291 metre active volcano.
The big tram has a 500m vertical (more if you hike) and the area claims to have the best and most consistent powder in Japan, (and possibly the worst weather)?
It was bitterly cold on my arrival but a hot Onsen soak and then “Kampi..ing” with a hard core Parisienne group in the Ice Bar calmed me for tomorrows deep and steep.
Snowing lightly, minus 20 celsius and merky visibility is not a good start to any day, but first tram was still an exciting beginning to another pow pow adventure. From the top station they had marked two runs off a relatively steep pitch dropping through trees and eventually on to long flat run-outs…..and another YAWN.
With good visibility there are plenty of steep shots at Asahidake but all are marked “No Patrol – NO Sweep”, so take your poison…..just make sure you have Back Country Insurance!
That said, the YHA. Hostel “Daisetsuzan Shirakabasou” is amazing. More like a 4 star hotel and the inclusive breakfast and dinner is authentic Japanese Country fare, and very yummy.
The warm Onsen waters spew around the large modern lodge and there is also a separate log cabin which sleeps at least 10.
The hostel is casually well managed by the owner Yasuko and her hand made Rice-Balls of
Salmon and Pickled Plumb were the perfect packed lunch.
It started puking down late morning and the viz. got even worse…. So I pulled the plug
and jumped the late bus back to ASAHIKAWA CITY to see their Ice Carving competition.
Wandering around and watching them create their delicate sculptures gave me a great appreciation of how intricate it is to shape them with hand tools, and every conceivable power tool. (it is Japan)!
The city of Asahikawa is famous for being the coldest place in Japan and having the best Ramen Restaurants, that are hearty and cheap.
The JR. Express train was a fast dash back to Sapporo and another prize Japanese experience. Finally,…… I was going to sleep in a Capsule Hotel?
AK. a 1.5 metre in circumference, x 2 metre long, x air conditioned, x tv, + radio and alarm clock, coffin. Men Only!
The check-in is a bit complicated, being originally designed for Japanese males who had missed their trains after alcohol fuelled business dinners. It starts with paying in cash, then your shoes are put in a small locker. (they are your deposit and gets you a key).
Large lockers are down stairs where every one changes into a simple kimono, then finds their numbered capsule on one of the seven floors and the communal bath-house is on the top floor.
The capsules are bigger than I imagined, squarish inside, with the TV and Radio system
moulded into the fibreglass cocoon, and all sheets, blanket and toiletries are provided.
The only difficulty is if you choose a top bunk as I did, it’s a scramble to climb up and monkey-like to get out! With the front blind down the capsule is very private but they can be a bit noisy when late revellers bang about.
That evening I wandered the enormous SAPPORO ICE FESTIVAL and especially enjoyed the giant Mega Sculptures (some taking more than 3 months to create with the help of the Japanese military).
Prominent was the huge Japanese-Malaysian ‘friendship themed’ Super Sculpture and it’s ice stage for the various Boy-Bands, and the crowds favourite “Shuka Shuka”.(ak. Shoxx).
This Japanese Rock Band has huge cult status, and dress in classical but very hip Japanese Kimono’s, and with their manga looks, masks, make up, bling-bling, jewellery and piercings were mystical to watch in the freezing cold and through the snowy lighting.
The cream on Sapporo’s Ice Festival cake for me was the “Park to Air” free style competition, with hot skiers and boarders hurling them selves off a massive ski jump (or down the mogul line) and it’s in the centre of Sapporo City.
A leisurely ski at SAPPORO TEINE the following morning was a pleasant way to end “Chasing the Pow Pow” in Japan. It’s only an hour from the Sapporo JR. Centre and the connecting bus accepts JR. Rail passes.
TEINE is made up of three zones and the top Highland Zone is a former Olympic stage (GS. and Slalom events) with a comprehensive base facility, and a very civilised VIP. Lounge.
All the sliding in this zone is down steep groomed runs that peel off from the fast Summit Chair holding centre stage. Off Piste sliding is not encouraged but the groomer’s had plenty of untracked fluff on the side and a couple of deep zipper-lines to keep life edgy.
Directly under the quad is one of those “‘pay attention, every one is watching you”
shirt fronts with BIG moguls and a tricky off-camber line through the trees…and it’s definitely a ” Eyes wide Open ” pitch!
From the Summit the chilly (it was -18c) view over Sapporo City was stunning, with the fresh snow merging from the surrounding mountain ranges and into the icy blue Ishikari Bay.
This picture perfect view vaporised all my previous ‘poor visibility’ grumbles back into history,
Job done, Game over.
My 21 Day Japan Rail Pass expired after the chaotic overnight JR. Express ride from Sapporo to Aomori and the connecting bullet-fast Shinkansen back to Tokyo Central Station.
After threading my way through the Tokyo Underground I emerged at ASAKUSA and eventually found my traditional Minshuku above a local Izakaya.
This is the historic area of Tokyo and is centred by the revered Senso–Ji Temple, a mishmash of ancient Nakamise Dori (tourist kitch) shops and the sweet children’s vintage amusement park Hanayashiki.
Asakusa is a safe neighbourhood (ward) and crammed with Interesting Everything.
Including Izakayas, Theme restaurants, Dance bars, Pachino gambling buildings, Love hotels, Anime, Manga art and traditional Edo style craft shops.
“Chasing the Pow Pow in Japan” was a blast. It included 18 days skiing at 12 premium resorts, endless dragging of my ski bag and humping a back pack, up escalators, down elevators, in and out of trains, buses, hotels, guest hostels, pensions, ryokans, minshukus, ski lodges, capsule hotels, sleeping carpet class and……..eating yummy yummy Japanese food.
