Planning a ski trip to New Zealand in these post Covid years is now a seriously Hokey-Pokey guess, due to the traditional weather patterns and snow predictions being more volatile and frustratingly dysfunctional.
Flights with coordinated accommodation, vehicle rentals, school holidays, crowded weekends and endless driving up goat tracks (including using chains on 4x4s!)… all is forgotten when your skis glide and carve down that fresh cold Kiwi Pow.
July and August are the winter months when the Southern Alps are postcard pristine and often drifts into mid September. Offering more sporting opportunities including trout fishing, hiking, being a tourist in ‘God’s own’ and vineyard hopping in a camper van.
Or driving up to the North Island (using the inter-island ferry) to enjoy the world class spring skiing on ‘puffing’ Mt Ruapehu, at Whakapapa or the Turoa ski field above ‘cutsie’ Ohakune.
This year (2023) my totally illogical travel guess was: late July till late August (a month) and with two Ski Bros for a ‘Boys Only ski n’not tell’ trip to WANAKA.
A train and plane got me home to Auckland (sans 2 pair of ski’s and usual ya ya) and straight into a HUGE SCRUM at customs clearance! Age before beauty works and with compassion from a security officer I was guided through, thanks Air New Zealand.
My first stop was The Snow Centre in Auckland where Bro Diago (a classy former Italian Olympic ski tuner) offered me a pair of World Cup Stockli GS. race skis with plates and Salomon bindings. Saying…“they are perfect for you, short but with a long radius”?
Then Brian aka.‘Bodgie boy’ turned up, packed the skis (6 pairs) and hit the turbo hard. 2 hours later we were eating fresh Fush n’ Chips in Te Kuiti!
Eventually arriving at the cosy Ngaruahoe Ski Club in Ohakune, before a social evening with Benny M. in the casual and tasty Kitchen Restaurant at the Junction.
Waking up with snow on your car is always exciting, but after a friendly Chitty chat- chat with the ladies in the Ohakune I Site about heavy snow, iced towers and the miserable visibility on Turoa, we aimed south to Foxton Beach for a late snack at the Little White Rabbit cafe and a cool n’ quenchy Foxton Fizz.
Staying in the heart of Wellington (with off street parking) is important as the inter-island ferries leave from the busy down town harbour and the signage is confusing.
Our evening in the Capital started with cin cins in the busy Astoria Bar and Grill on Lambton Quay and eventually finishing with tasty pub food in the stylish Chapman Taylor Cafe & Inn.
The reliable Bluebridge Ferries leave at 8.15 am and take about four hours (always subject to weather) to pretty Picton in the Marlborough Sounds, and don’t forget your deck number and parking spot!
On arrival and after checking snow forecasts, we B-lined for Mt Hutt west of Christchurch and its feeder town METHVEN. Its about a 6 hour drive using Highway 2, including a mandatory stop at Nin’s Bin on the Kiakora coast for fresh Fush n’ Chips, Lobster tails, live Mussels or a Seafood basket.
Being a weekend we booked our rooms well in advance in the historic Blue Pub at Methven, they are clean n’ tidy, a perfect location and good value. Eat In or Out and the bar – casual restaurant was fun and easy, Country Kiwi style.
On Sunday morning we hit the road’ at 6.35 am! Still dark and about a 45 minute drive up to Mt Hutt’s top car park. Then a simple walk to the ticket office before enjoying a hearty kiwi breakfast in the main building.
It was a perfect Blue Bird day with about 20 cm of sparkly pow covering the main trails and some serious off piste lines. Boots on and with new Stockli GS. skis down, what more does a teenager need!
Dick Tracy, aka. Brian, was cool and confidant and took his ‘first of the season’ thrash like a well seasoned Masters Racer…which he is. My new skis were sensational right from the get go on hard pack, skim or in the fresh pow they arc and turn on demand and track perfectly with my diminishing speeds.
On ‘the day’, Mt Hutt offers the best advanced skiing in New Zealand. Its a big bowl with a decent vertical (600m+) and plenty of Off Piste lines below Virgin Mile, The Towers pitch and in the chute’s below South Face which lead back to the bottom station. Mt. Hutt also has the nick name “Mt. Shutt”, with a well maintained but often scary gravel road…Use a 4 x 4 and carry chains or catch the buses that leave from Methven? And the view over the Canterbury plains is amazing, right to the South Pacific Ocean.
We finished the Blue Bird day with a relaxing dinner in the Dubliner Pub and then watched the grudge Rugby game back in the rockin’ Blue Pub. Go the All Blacks!
Monday was bizzy-as, and we were on the road early to the RoundHill Ski Area. Stopping for breakfast at the famous FAIRLIE Bakehouse for coffee and gourmand Kiwi Pies that are consistently voted the best in New Zealand.
Refreshed, we turned off Highway 2 just before Tekapo-Village and then navigated the rally-style track beside stunning Lake Tekapo to the privately owned ski fields.
RoundHill has a good dollop of family terrain with excellent grooming and the rolling pitches off the two T Bars are popular ski-race training slopes.
Above the main slopes is the steep and some say “intimidating” Express Rope Tow (a nutcracker is required) with a vertical drop of 783 metres to challenge the best Freeride wannabees.
It’s a well managed and family run ski area, with smiley and chatty staff, a casual cafe-restaurant with picnic deck and the cutest Von Brown snack n’ bar with O.M.G. views. 5 hours of perfect conditions and no que’s…we were Done and it was FUN.
After leaving Tekapo-Village on Highway 2 the picture perfect drive over Burkess Pass and Lindis Pass was turbo fast (they can close due to snow and ice) to WANAKA and our welcoming smart n’ comfy central apartment.
There is very limited On-snow accommodation in the Southern Alps (anchored by Wanaka and Queenstown) and as our priority was quality-challenging skiing we prefer the Wanaka vibe. Its an easy drive to the Cardrona or Treble Cone base areas and catching the free bus up to Cadrona (with no muddy walking in car parks) is a good option.
Or stay at the historic Cardrona Hotel on the Crown Range road. This Kiwi icon is always great fun after skiing and the guest menus are loaded with the best local and fresh produce and classy local wines.
Above the chaotic cafeteria at Cardrona is the lux MEZZ Bar with table service only. Its’ comfy and stylish and the delightful staff were most obliging and friendly. They even reserved an early morning table for ‘the boys’ and tolerated us ‘booting-up’ while enjoying our morning Coffees and Croissants. And their lunch choices and apres ski cocktails are more than refreshing!
With a couple of “down days” our social calendar in Wanaka included late brunching at Urban Grind, Federation Dinner and the popular Pembroke Patisserie in Albert Town.
Crescending with birthday-boy Brian’s ‘70 something’ at the gourmand KiKa Restaurant and their JUST FEED ME seven course surprise menu!… highly recommended.
This winter the popular South Island Masters ski racing circuit was cancelled due to skinny snow and limited training facilities. However Cardrona Resort did stage a ‘turn up and go’ event at dawn.
The blind 3rd gate and flat light snooked me, but Bronnie, Brian and Diago bought home gold n’ silver from the podium Hoo-haa and sparkled the apres “shout” in the MEZZ Bar.
Our visits to Treble Cone were disappointing, with limited groomed trails, fluctuating temperatures and busy slopes producing endless and tricky sugar scrape on the lower runs. And sharing the hard and fast piste down Main Street with the popular Rookies groups and the local bombers became…well, scary.
When Chris joined our trio we teamed up, Diago-Brian and Chris-MuzzA. This reduced our collective size and allowed the two coaches to focus on their different philosophies to improve our skills and confidence in the sugar, flat light and misty visibility. Our focus being: take a positive “Can Do” attitude to move down the hill in a balanced-rhythmic position, turn in-on the sugar push bumps and keep your “eyes up” to maintain a taut tummy?
Eventually the skiing at T.C. became rather ho hum and with our Off-piste adventures in the scoured Saddle Basin ending in tears with p-tex gouges and nasty edge burs. Thanks Diago for maintaining our bases, edges and wax, they were always perfecto. Grazie di tutto Mio amico.
On our last weekend we had an impromptu ski day at Cardrona with my family who had driven over from Queenstown. It was fast n’ fun with plenty of bravado on the fast groomers and bumps under the Captains Express chair, and down the Gin and Raspberry Face. After a late lunch in the busy Captains Table and the long descent to the bottom car park we finished a classic Kiwi ski day with a rowdy apres hour in the Cardrona Hotel.
After checking the regional weather (not good) and snow options we drove north to the legendary LAKE OHAU LODGE nestled on the shores of Lake Ohau and directly under the sky-high Ohau Snow Fields. Our comfy 60s style suite was perched above the lake with gorgeous views towards the southern alps and Aoraki (Mount Cook). It is a truly remarkable lodge with an equally impressive clubbie snow field all owned and run by the owners Mike and Louise Neilson.
Our travelling day ending with a delicious High Country three course meal in the busy dinning room and a good old chin wag with new friends around the log fire. Breakfast was prompt with tasty euro choices and a traditional Kiwi cooked plate. Then came the bad news from the boss “the ski field is closed today”. Weather!
After walking to the mountain road gate, collecting pine cones and a tourist drive up to the Mount Cook National Park gate, dinner couldn’t come quick enough… Drinks from the bar and social chit chat in the games room with the locals and members of the USA ski team set the tone for an interesting evening and another very tasty High Country feast.
My simple choice was outstanding; Mushroom-walnut and date soup, Braised merino lamb shank-with glazed carrots, yams, and peas, finishing with a Rhubarb-and berry compot. All perfectly balanced with a local (Canterbury) Pinot Rose.
After an early breakfast and bills paid, discount lift tickets collected and thank yous galore, we were GONE.
It was 4 x 4s or chains only. NO exceptions. The gravel road up to the Ohau Snow Fields is steepish and narrow, with some tight elbow turns on the graded and snow packed surface. All managed and well organised by the staff and responsible guests.
When the lift started turning we skied down from the Day-Lodge and cafeteria to the 2 seater chair (there’s only one plus the platter) and lifted off into the somewhat merky summit.
Blank vizz to Orange trail disks in boot top pow was the call, and with no vertical references and being on a virgin mountain (to us) was very testing. The vizz fluctuated all morning, opening up a few rhythmic gullies under the chair and beside the International race training course commandeered by the USA and Swiss ski teams staying at the Lodge.
Skiing was ‘dodgy at best’ and eventually Brian protested he was done till the vizz improved, skiing off towards the Cafeteria. Ouch, he tripped and dumped himself hard in the thick fresh snott? Eventually the cloud blanket shrouded the entire field and everyone congregated in the retro cafeteria for their picnic or fresh tacos or pies n’ pastries…
Driving down the Goat (gravel) road mid afternoon was picture perfect and after much banter we turned towards Twisel and KAIKOURA on the east coast for an overnight stay. From this classy Beachfront town with impressive snow capped mountain views (voted one of the top 50 on the planet) it’s a hop, step and jump up to Picton for the ferry.
After Coffee and Cookies at the BEE BOX and a fast drive through the Marlborough Vineyards we arrived at the rather euro-posh Picton Boulevard and the world famous TOASTIE Cafe.
The glassy crossing (rare on a Cook Strait ferry) and a fast exit from Wellington completed our one stopper to Ohakune. (about 10 hours from Picton in total). Up late and with my travelling buddy still suffering from the consequences of a nasty fall, we changed focus and became ‘tourists’ in Ohakune.
Our first stop was a guided tour of the historic Ohakune Railway Museum and visiting the impressive Opus Fresh Apparel Company next door. Both are housed in the original Ohakune Railway Station and their famous Volcanic Espresso and Cake is served in the stylish boutique or on the station platform creating a unique ‘down under’ persona.
Life long Turoa skier and Railway Station guide Ian Heaphy has a wonderful patter about this Main Trunk Railway stop and the Tangiwai Disaster of 53. Thank you Mate for your passionate and informative tour. When will we ski again?
Janelle Hiner is the owner and designer of Opus Fresh Apparel and crafts a unique and fashionable range of Adventure Wear using sustainable New Zealand merino, fabrics and yarns.
When skiing at Turoa check out the locally made and hand crafted C6 Skis by carbon composite specialist Craig Sterling. They look and feel ‘the business’ and they usually offer ski tests at the top of the busy giant chair and cafe at Turoa.
Our last ‘kiwi night out’ was in the Ohakune Hotel and Bistro, with it’s classic n’ tasty pub food, cold beers, big screen of regional Rugby and the rowdy locals! It was fun and social and a fitting end to our “ski n’ not tell” Boys Trip to Kiwi Land.
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