Skiing in Austria, Slovenia, France and Switzerland…
and BASE-jumping!
It took me Four Stops with different airlines to fly from Proserpine to Brisbane, Singapore, Frankfurt, Milano and then the express train to VILLACH in Austria… and finally a quick taxi ride to the delightfully retro KRAMER Hotel in this historic city bordering the Julian Alps.
My ultimate destination was the Austrian Ski Resort of NASSFELD above the Italian border and the ski centred village of TROPOLACH. It’s in the heart of the Carinthian adventure mountains and at the base of the long Millennium Express Gondola. (with 3 exit stations).
Note: From Villach’s main Bahnhof regular trains go to HERMAGOR the ski regions commercial centre and a connecting bus to Tropoloach Village Plaza.
Finding the JOST Apartments was difficult as snow had blotched most of the street signs but Plan B worked after I dragged my ski bag into the prominent SOLLE Sport Store and asked for “HELP.”… and it came in buckets. “Thank You” Flinn and team.
Chatting in English, he then said “give me 20 minutes and I will walk you there”. Now dark, he found the key box, opened the door and casually said “see you tomorrow, it’s my day off and the pow is great up top. Call in at 10 and get your ticket in the Plaza Office”!
The church bells had me up early, and now running on adrenaline I grabbed my puffer jacket and went for a walk to find a coffee shop, better still a Backerei? Posh looking “Moritz” was perfect and it was just up the street.
Day one at Nassfeld was amazing in fresh boot top Pow and always fun with a local, Flinn taking the lead but also finding “the goods’’ for me too. And being a very strong All Mountain Skier on his home mountain and on Pow-Planks his aggressive style and choice of terrain was inspiring.
He gave me a great Tiki Tour of Nassfeld’s upper mountain runs and especially those off the Troghohe and Carnia lifts. We also skied down to the Tropolach Base from the top of the RASTL bubble. (a 7+ km blast in fresh pow on the groomed base).
After visiting SONNENAL NASSFELD a satellite mid mountain village where Solle Sport has a comprehensive Ski Shop and Test Centre, I jumped on a pair of SCOTT Sea’s 88 all mountain skis and a nice choice…for the old guy!
Finishing the day in the popular and often manic “Zum Alois” Bar and Bistro…. Flinn had been a tough tour guide as we had covered most of the steeper groomed slopes and bombed good Pow below the two busy Centres of KOFEL and SONNLEITN.
The Beer and Goulash finished me off and with the parting words from Flinn being “call in tomorrow. We have a surprise for you…and don’t bring your skis” … I then waddled off to my cozy Jost studio. And those Church Bells rang every morning at 6 am, luckily Moritz was always open by 7 and serving great coffee and fresh local pastries.
“These are our choice for you today” said Flinn… A brand new pair of Elan 2026-27 ACE skis. The ‘Black Addition’ being very stylish and skied well on my initial runs, but as the push bumps got bigger the shovel and flex proved too stiff for me… eventually skiing down to Solle Sports and changing to a softer SCOTT model.
Then the hard charging Flinn changed tack and we enjoyed great freshies off the lower Garnnitzenbahn chairs near the Italian boarder.
Nassfeld ski resort claims to be in the Sun Alps and averages 100 days of sunshine? Well… maybe but as this week rolled on, the early morning clouds and low level fog persisted and diluted most of the blue skies and the smiley faces.
I skied with Flinn most days and then UJulia, Flinn’s ‘squeeze’ joined us latter in the week, proving to be a cool and stylish instructor in the skiffy vizz and endlessly bumpy slopes… and steadying company for the boys!
Most of the accommodation in Nassfeld is modern Austrian Style 3-4 star Chalet-Hotels or Self Service apartments and boot walk-able to the Plaza, or delivered in the cute Choo Choo train.
It’s family friendly and even in these school holidays the steeper groomed trails and Offpiste options offered plenty of challenge.
Getting from Tropolach to SLOVENIA is a mission and virtually impossible without a 4 x 4 type vehicle. Flinn’s diesel needed a run so after five happy days exploring Nassfeld and a half-day in the cafe-pub in Hermagor we travelled via TRAVISO in Italy to KRANJSKA GORA and neighbour PODKOREN. Eventually finding my cozy digs on the edge of the historic village before enjoying the tasty Street Party welcoming their winter holidays.
Kranjska Gora is Steep and its Fun! And the blue skies and ‘busy as’ front side was strewn with ski testing tents, kids ski races, happy families and an incredibly loud sound system! I started exploring on the T bars and a Poma then moved across the slopes to the Vitranc chair and gateway to the famous W.C. Slalom and G.S. courses ending in the Podkoren Arena.
Hungry? Its good at the bottom of the kids race training poma “Brsnina”. This is where the local skiers hang out for an early “Prost” and social hoo ha… while standing on a wood chipped floor.
Or enjoy the views and regional snacks on the Terasa of the Bedancev Dom mountain hut under the Vitranic 1 chair.
NOTE. The tantalizing quad chair Vitranic 2 was not open. (it’s a steep tree lined Red run off the top of the mountain and used mostly in the spring).
On my way home to the NIKA Apartments-Hostel I spied, in a INTERSPORT store, a new pair of Elan ‘folding’ skis? A model which could reduce my travel hassles by eliminating the “Over Weight or Over Length” airport luggage requirements. I had been in contact with Elan skis during the Pandemic offering ‘moi’ suggestions but lost interest after dull management ‘pulled the Pin’ on their R and D.?
Next morning I was given a thorough explanation of how to rotate the unique plate to unfold the skis, release the brakes and how the precise folding hinge mechanism closed to a minimum gap between the two lengths.
Right from the get-go they felt too heavy and these skis were too short for an All Mountain ski.(being 160 cm). They were easy to initiate into a turn, solid in the softening snow (it had rained in the night) and very ski-able On piste and through the junky Off piste, bumps and all!
Unfortunately there were no hard-slick slopes to test the edge and gap precision when carving on high edge angles as the steep rollers on the race course had softened. It was a good two hour test…on the front side and down the W.C. Slalom slopes above Podkoren.
However, when in the ‘Voyager’ Travel Bag (with wheels), the excessive weight of the folding skis create an “oxymoron”…and will not meet my travelling criteria. ie a 1 metre long bag with skis and all clothes, helmet, goggle case, personal ya ya, the adjustable poles and under 18 kilos. As I always travel with my boots, socks, glasses etc.in a 32 litre carry-on back pack weighing 7.5 kg max. Ensuring two bags only and with two free hands.
After three days skiing in Kranjska Gora and some exceptional help from the Tourist Office I juggled my onward bookings to include touristy BLED and LAKE BOHINJSKO in the heart of the Julian Mountain Range, while staying in the village of Bohinisko Jezero a mere 5 ks from VOGAL Ski Resort.
HOTEL CENTRAL is a great location! Close to the cheerful Tourist office, the solo bus stop, a stunning lake side and the historic church. And their hospitality, comfortable rooms and tasty ‘regional country fare’ breakfasts, lunches or dinners are great value.
Unfortunately the weather was awful with continuing rains, fog and bleakness. The following morning I dressed to ski and caught the free bus up to the Vogal Resort Base to considered my options, as there was only one run open and the visibility on the weather cams was appalling. After taking photos of the Cable Car and chatting to the store chick and ticket office… I “Pulled the Plug” as it was definitely a “Can’t see… Don’t Ski.”moment. Yes, I got ‘Skunked’ going to the Vogel Ski Resort but will return.
So here’s the skinny: Vogel has been voted the best ski resort in Slovenia 3 times. Above the steep Cable Car is a central plateau feeding a gondola and about 6 chairs and surface lifts. It also has the longest Red run in Slovenia (7.5 km). Starting off the top chair at 1800 meters and finishing in the car park.
Both Hotel Central (3 stars) and the very cool Hotel BOHINJ (a 5 star wannabe) above Jezero Village are great value in the winter.
WARNING: avoid the Slovenian school holidays and definitely the busy weekends? (Parking and Lift Lines)! See you there.
It was still raining when I arrived in the chaotic bus and train station in Ljubljana. Then ‘dragged the bag’ to the ibis FUZZY LOG Hotel-Pod Hostel close to the historic city centre. It’s 6 floors of 3 star hotel rooms and one with Lux-Hostel options. All managed 24/7 by a cheerful reception team from the top floor and beside the breakfast only restaurant.
After finding ‘Turizem Ljubljana’ on the Central Plaza I figured out how to get to Slovenia’s best ski resort KRVAVEC as there are NO direct busses? Eventually purchasing a ticket to Cerklje na Gorenjska the closest village (6 ks) to Krvavec’s access cable car and car park.
Two steps off the bus and with my thumb out a lux-van stopped, “get in and put your skis in back, we are running late and my boy is ski racing at 11 o’clock”. Then introducing himself in business english as “Sandi”…my school boy nickname (Sandy) derived from Sandman. 20 minutes latter we were putting our boots on and having a decent Latte in the popular EKO TURIZEM VIZENCAR Restaurant, Bar and Guest house above the Cable Car exit.
There are 3 main quad chairs at Krvavec and with his son SVIT race-training and racing with coach supervision we were able to monitor his progress while enjoying our skiing on the steepish groomed Red Runs or down the grumpy black pitch starting from the top of Zvoh. at 1971 m. It was a Fast and Fun day with Sandi as he is a very good skier with plenty of contemporary racing skills.
Only stopping for ‘coffee and cake’ before he hosted the well attended race presentations, including a winner’s trophy to SVIT. (who skied above his age group).
the presentations I checked out the on snow ski in-out Hotel Krvavec. a 3 Star Chalet Style hotel with on-mountain car parks, interesting regional menus and a health spa….
We completed our day with a delicious late lunch of Obara (slovenia’s famous stew) and a tipple of Zganje in the busy Eko Turizem Restaurant (definitely my style) then Sandi drove Sandy to a railway station for the 30 minute ride back to Ljubljana. Cheers Sandi!
The weather on my ski day at Krvavec was mostly blue skies in the morning and the familiar ‘lowering clouds’ and flatish light after the race presentations. And by the time I reached the ibus Fuzzy Log it was pouring down and definitely Olympic TV time on the big lounge screen.
Ljubljana is a very walk-able city and the historic centre spreads along the banks of the Ljubljanica river. A city with history and style, and a passion for art and design. After checking the ongoing Euro weather patterns (heavy snow and avalanches) I extended my stay at Fuzzy Log, changed my Pod for a ‘Solo Cabin’ and cancelled my ongoing ski journey to ROGLA.
Each day focusing on a particular area within the historic city, including the steep walk up to the impressive Castle over looking the city markets, art galleries, retro cafes, boutique clothing stores, vintage opp shops, stylish wine bars and exquisite private hotels. All promoted as LOVE FEST!
.
Geneva is a long way from Ljubljana but there is a direct ( 5 stop-15 hour) over-night FLIXbus which arrives in the Bus Park in central Geneva, and connects with a SWISS Tours ski bus to the mega French-Swiss region “PORT du SOLEIL”.
I chose to stay in MORZINE being well connected to LES GETS and AVORIAZ and has two cable cars out of the busy village. Sunday started with fresh tracks under the Pleney gondola and down tree runs to the Le Stade slopes, then moving to the wooded areas in Chavannes above Les Gets before challenging the Chamossiere Express secteur. Finally finishing exhausted at the gondola base and ‘apres time’ at the pink Cable Car.
There are two ways to get to Avoriaz from Morzine and via the gondola connecting to the Super Morzine lifts is best, eventually arriving above the Cool Jump n’ Spin park and other options.
Avoriaz is a car free resort and you can ski down the main street and enjoy crepe’s and a beer on the go? It’s higher, colder and had better snow, and the distinctive architecture is ‘oh so french’.
I enjoyed it so much I returned next day, taking the the Bus and Prodains Gondola to access the higher and steeper slopes off the Grandes Combes Chair…and more chocolate crepes!
Skiing to Les Gets is easy from the Pleny Telecabine and traversing with the kids before bombing the Orchis slope put me in front of a Rossignol ski testing tent. They make good skis and I was very impressed with their Masters M 13 Slalom skis which held beautifully on the very steep testing slope.
But my eyes were really on the slopes over Les Gets village road and getting to the Gondola down the street? There is a wide and steep race training slope from the gondola but on the back side and below Mont Chery, the Chevreuil chair has fabulous Red or Black slopes with BIG manageable bumps and a mountain hut at the bottom… and no lift lines.
My last day skiing in the Ports du Soleil was at ROC D’ ENFER. A delightful spring day-out which started with a free 30 minute bus ride to Saint-Jean-d’Aulps and up a steep mountain switch-back to the pretty resort and cute gondola.
The R.d.E slopes snuggle up to the La Combe de Graydon face and under the impressive and temping Roc d’Enfer summit (with a guide)? Offering interesting tree lined runs and possibly the scariest T Bar on the planet! A late lunch at the base concluded an interesting and laid back day and a day trip is highly recommended. (might be busy at weekends)?
My stay at Morzine was in the popular HIDE OUT Hostel and Restaurant being in a good central location and near the main Bus Station. They offer various sleep options (ask when you book) and the casual breakfast choices are fresh and tasty. In the evening the creative Asian-French cuisine is popular with ‘Lads and Ladies’ for social Hoo-Ha and the mix is cleverly blended to accompany wild cocktails and very good house wines. 7 nights 6 days and 5 bluebird ski days…time to GO.
.
Catching the early SWISS Tour bus to the Geneva Airport provided me a safety net as my next journey to the mega Swiss JUNGFRAU Region was not refundable and left from the City Station at 12 04 pm. It’s a 5 hour journey via Bern and Interlaken and then a regional train to LAUTERBRUNNEN
You cannot ski into Lauterbrunnen but it is the best location if planning a ski trip to the three distinct resorts: MURREN, WENGEN and GRINDELWALD. I was lucky as my Ngauruhoe Ski Club’s former chef in Ohakune, Hidi (or Hidi-Ho) lives in this region and had agreed to Chaperone me for the week as we had skied together at Turoa, and she is one tough cookie on skis!
There are 3 Cable Cars out of Lauterbrunnen Village and we always started with coffee n cake at Backeri Von Allmen above the regional train station and next door to the original cable car that connects with a train to car free Murren.
First up were the steep runs above the village and below the towering Schilthorn Piz Gloria Peak. Including the super steep Direttissima run below Berg and the spectacular slopes under Obere Hubel before ‘lunching with a view’ at the historic Schifthornhutte. Then running the lower piste’s off the Schilthorn Cable Car and finishing in the Stechelberg-Murren near-vertical cable car (the steepest on the planet) and bussing home via the Horner Pub!
Winter is down time for many businesses in Lauterbrunnen but the Hotel Horner Pub saved the day…my week, providing neat snacky meals and good draft beers in the traditional English-Irish way.
Next day we went up to Wengen on the mountain train and continued on a clickity-clack train to Grindelwald and the FIRST area’s warm and sunny slopes under the Schwarzhorn Peak. It was FAST n’ FUN with Hidi, Hidi-Ho bombing the perfect ego slopes and terrifying the ‘sledding brigade’ down the steep traverse’s, before enjoying the local brew and a ‘rowdy’ late lunch sitting at the elevated “take a picture of me” table under the magic EIGER. And eventually finishing the glorious day in the Grindelwald Terminal and Shopping Mall buying chocolates.
Next morning after Coffee and Cake we took the clickity-clack up to Kieine Scheidegg, and after wizzing down the speed track to Grindelwald, we used the impressive Eiger Express to ski the steeps under the Eigergletscher Station, and the gateway to the spectacular train ride up to “Jungfraujosh Top of Europe”). After baulking at the price (85 CHF. each) we found the permanent start-gate for the famous Lauberhorn Downhill ski race and took the challenge! Not fast, but we didn’t stop in the narrow gut, or over the jump before the narrow bridge and the fast finishing line. Earning a casual but civilized lunch on the terrace of Mary’s Cafe. Ouch! it was expensive. $$$.
On our last day we decided to revisit Murren and the delightful Cafe Liv and to enjoy our Coffee and Pastries with the very stylish girls. Then took the Schilthornbahn up to the rotating Piz Gloria Restaurant to re-live the “On his Majesty’s Secret Service” Bond film… and enjoy the views. It’s four stories of concrete and confusing fun with film clips, theme music, a replica helicopter flight deck, the original bobsleigh and amazing info about making the film with Dianna Rigg and George Lazenby. And 007 skiing off the top deck chased by the baddies! The Skiers Exit is on the ground floor, click on your skis and enjoy the thrill, over the blind drop and then ease the speed in the sweeping left turn. It’s BIG FUN, don’t fall.
Skiing in Switzerland is expensive BUT the magnificent Jungfrau mountains offer more than good value, with trains, busses, cable cars, eye boggling engineering and perfect ‘swissed-up’ hotels and historic mountain huts.
Our “apre’s” were usually at the popular Horner Pub and it also proved to be the most sociable evening choice to meet locals and interesting internationals wandering around the globe. and noted after reading the BASE Jumpers ‘Memorial Wall’ that this Pub was ….BASE-Jumping Central.
I stayed in the VALLEY HOSTEL in Lauterbrunnen. It’s a quick drag-bag from the Regional Station and in a great central location in the small village…offering comfortable and affordable sleep options on three floors and in a-joining building. They offer a simple breakfast, or you can use the immaculate commercial kitchen anytime and the casual lounge, sun terrace and ski storage. All enthusiastically managed and fastidiously maintained. Best of all it attracts friendly and diverse guests interested in the stunning Jungfrau Mountain Beauty and the healthy activities year round.
BiG Thanks must go to my Swiss Mate Hidi, Hidi-Ho. You have been a great guide, companion and proved to be a tough ‘all mountain’ skier’. We were blessed with great weather and excellent snow conditions and with your spontaneous manner and Swiss intuition made my ski trip to the Jungfrau Ski Region was AMAZING.
Base-jumping!
I was introduced to “Andy from Perth” in the Horner Pub as a well known and respected BASE-Jumper and over a few pints and supper he explained the intricacies and head space required to participate in this chancy Sport. As I had previously read their ‘Memorable Wall’ in the Pub celebrating Base-Jumpers ‘who had met their maker’ after flying off the Staubbach or Spisschach face above Lauterbrunnen. (this area carrying the honours of having the most…terminal incidents)!
On my last day (not skiing) I enthusiastically walked to the famous Staubbach water fall above Lauterbrunnen and waited near Anns Chalet, eventually hearing the loud ‘poofs’ of chutes opening and 3 BASE-Jumpers spiralling down and landing in the paddock next door. But NO Andy!
Andy had jumped further down the valley at High Ultimate and it’s very difficult to see them flying from below, at 170 km! We chatted later and then he said “I got you a photo and video of me on the platform and flying”… Enjoy.
now watch Andy base-jump!
My travel day to Milano was on the Sunday and I left Lauterbrunnen on a Regional train at 12. 35 for Interlaken, then Spiez, Brig, and finally arriving in the chaotic Milano Central Railway Station.
Milano is my “GO TO” entry-exit to Europe…mostly. It’s usually the cheapest and hopefully a one stopper that arrives early and leaves late and not a major Rho Exhibition weekend. $$.
After settling in OSTELLO BELLO I focused on my exploring-shopping day in the hip ISOLA area as it’s only a casual walk from the Central Railway Station. And the next morning I was looking out for the cool customers or locals enjoying their first coffee or colazione at a bar or tavola.
Isola is a great area with interesting Fashion, Home-ware, Restaurants, Antiques, Gallery’s Retro Boutiques and even a Historic Car and Bike Racing Emporium selling beautiful replica clothing and classic auto gizmo’s…find Piazzale Segrino then look for the (FH – GULF Store) it’s passionately managed by Philippe.
MILANO-LINATE-MUNICH-SINGAPORE-BRISBANE-PROSERPINE-DINGO BEACH-
and finally HOME.
Cin Cin.
Murray Sandman
Feb/Mar 2026