Skiing in New Zealand is now a crap shoot, with volatile and irregular weather patterns, unpredictable snow falls, and contrary temperatures. Get it right… and it’s Great!
Flying home from Australia to Queenstown direct (3 + hours) is usually a ‘comfy no-brainer’, but this trip was somewhat spoilt by a grubby and tired 737, endless toilet queues and my tasteless grilled cheese sammie! (Regardless, the busy flight crew were marvelous and very welcoming).
Chris and the glam ‘Bro-Brian’ were waiting, then whisked us to Wanaka for our first week skiing at Treble Cone and Cardrona. Collecting our lift tickets and welcoming ‘hoo ha’ with the gregarious staff of the Cardrona Commercial Office in the Base Camp Restaurant and Bar. Too Easy Bro.
Day One…both resorts were closed due to high winds and murky visibility… I changed my Foot Bed appointment at the SOLE LAB in Wanaka, then we walked to the popular Food Truck Village for a delicious Coffee and Cake brekkie.
Jason Woolf, the owner of Sole Lab, is the ‘down under’ foot bed guru. He is meticulous with his individual ski boot fittings, timely, accommodating, and good value. ” When do you want them, mate?”…” tomorrow at 7 am to enjoy first tracks at T.C.” “Done” he said…”see you then”.
Driving around glistening Lake Wanaka at daybreak is always exciting with Taxi-Uber-Rally-Car driver Chris, as he is determined to secure a front row grid position in the tight carpark at Treble Cone, as all locals do.
The mountain was open but exposing brown Tussuck faces with only two groomed trails going back to the base. It was very disappointing as the grippy race pitch down Main Street quickly became congested with the popular Rookies academy groups.
Our traditional ‘Kiwi-Pie ‘n Chups’ came early on the Bistro deck, and the Cocktail Bar was already humming!
Eventually, the Southern slopes off the Saddle Back chair opened, offering Fast an’ Slick groomers down Raffill’s Run or rough off-piste lines through the tussock and sharp shale into Dave’s Ditch.
After three days of early starts and sociable-extended Bistro lunches and endless ‘fall line’ slalom turns, we changed tack and traveled daily to Cardrona Resort. (It’s about 35 minutes with a Rally driver.)
To enjoy the light freshies with inevitable Push bumps and Slick steeps down to busy chairlift queues. Unfortunately, the new and exciting SOHO Freestyle Slopes off the top of the Captain’s Chair Quad was closed. (lacking water for their snow guns).
It’s early days for this new area and a good option to The Willows slopes, as they both offer plenty of steepish off-piste choices from the new 6-pack chair.
Cardrona is always ‘bustling n’ busy’ and the resort had made heaps of snow to entertain the ‘Kamakasie Kids’ and Wanabies in the Snow Park and over Mega jumps and Features. BIG FUN!
Most runs to the bottom car park were open, but the skinny snow conditions required constant ‘safety awareness’ when merging with the slow zones.
We made the most of everything. It was frantic in the Base Bistro and Canteen, and Captains Restaurant was “Apre Ski” all day! Always finishing down at the Cardrona Pub…or in the delightfully potent Cardrona Distillery. (Nominate your driver first).
There are plenty of options in Wanaka when the weather turns “contrary,” and our local speedster Chris proved to be a great tour guide. “Apre” wine tasting at Rippon Vineyards after driving back from T.C. was very palatable, and the Vibe, View, and passing Glam at the Lake Front eateries and bars are always humming and sociable PM.
And the Core shopping activities and services are easily found off the Main Street and around the busy Lake Front promenade. Check out Federal Diner-fedeli takeaway or Posh it up in the KIKA Restaurant with their ‘just feed me’ menu. Or met the stylish locals in Pembroke Wines and Spirits and enjoyed their Tasting Paddles with a Gourmet Platter.
Our Wanaka swan-song was ‘Bro Brian’s’ 80th birthday (still skiing like a Master Racer should) at the quirky PARADISO Cinema – Cafe and Bar. We didn’t score the seats in the convertible Morris Minor but lay around on couches, snacking with Prosecco and watching “F.1 The Movie”…. then back to Pembroke Wines!
But Wait…Sunday was a “bluebird” day, and ‘Queen Bee’ Bonnie collected us at 7.30 sharp! “It’s going to be a cracking morning, guys,” and then a barbecue and plenty of Cin Cin on the deck”.
Googling weather patterns for all ski resorts in the South Island was depressing. Rain, snow, horrific wind warnings, closed mountain passes, and freezing temperatures set the scene? After scoring some antibiotics, I went to bed, and Bro Brian went home. Eventually, after checking for Covid (negative) I was rescued by my nephew Cam and Niko (the dog) and returned to QUEENSTOWN.
Then the local weather really went Upside Down, all the troops went home, and I went back to bed. Saved by neighbor Michele who texted me every morning after leaving yummy foods beside the garage door… True. A week in bed in Queenstown with filthy ‘bottom of the world rains’ closed everything, including Coronet Peak and The Remarkables ski resorts.
Better but not to drive, I snagged the local bus to Arrowtown (30 minutes) and enjoyed a neat day as a Tourist. Starting with a freshly ground coffee in Wolf Coffee Roasters, and a late lunch in the park with a famous Arrowtown Bakery gourmet pie.
Arrowtown is really a must do (if the ski resorts are closed) or a great “Apre” Ski stop after enjoying a day at Coronet Peak. Cin Cin at the Orleans Hotel and sporty bar or bag a roadie from the historic Rifters Distillery. This boutique and historic valley town is cold in the winter but an easy 20-minute drive to Coronet Peak.
Refreshed and with the Q.T. resorts ‘topped up’, Toddy arrived and we put the hammer down. First Tracks on his first day was exhausting on the front side groomers, and by lunch break, the more testing slopes off the Greengates Express Chair opened. Finishing the day in the hot-hot tub with beers and an express Pizza from the Cow Restaurant’s deliveryman.
The snow was a bit shy at Coronet Peak; all lifts were open, but the off-piste conditions were tricky, with some runs closing out to shale and tussock coverage. But a good time to test Race and Race -Carving skis on the grippy hard pack off the Coronet Peak Express chair.
After chatting to the importer, I snagged a new pair of Van Deer Slalom skis, 165 cm with plates and factory tune. A collaboration with Marcel Hircher, Van Deer Skis are beautifully presented and very very expensive. Kinda like a Bentley…All Show and lots of GO!
Toddy took the high-performance Fisher Curv RC4s and raved about their finesse and stability on the hard pack. With a wood core and a Triple Radius side cut on 164 cm. they are really Classy Skis.
On our last day before the family GANG arrived, we continued to test skis off the Coronet Peak Chair, and my first pair were the new Dynastar Speed Masters SL. They were outstanding on the hard pack and slick and very quick edge to edge. Similar to my “Go-To” skis, as I have been skiing on this iconic Race model and Race-Carvers for years.
Our last ski test was a surprise, both using the ATOMIC REDSTER X9S 174m. 65.5 underfoot and with integrated race plates. A hybrid World Cup race ski with a 14.5 tri radius side-cut. Quick to turn, run on rails, and the slim-tails accelerate you out of the turns with massive rebound. Whoo-boy, they made me feel like a world cupper…for 2 runs, then I was exhausted. Game Over!
After a warm-up day at “the peak,” the gang charged up to the Remakables Resort south of Queenstown. It’s a steep drive via Frankton (chains must be carried) to the cozy base with O.M.G. views. Being a Saturday, it was chocka…but great fun with plenty of laughs and even a few crashes by the wannabes
And guess who paid for the beers at Altitude Brewing and the Food-Truck tucker on the way home? Harry and Osca!
The heart of Queenstown has everything including a frigid southerly lake breeze down at the popular harbour and wharf, but all the good stuff is walkable and interesting…and can be expensive.
Some of my favorites are: Odd Saint for Breakfast, the Bespoke Kitchen for Brunch, Gatto’s Crepes cafe and bar for snacks, “Apre” after skiing at the Canyon Restaurant at the Shotover for Aperol and woodfired Pizza. Cocktails in the bar at Eicharts on the promenade and finally for dinner….grab your tooth brush, togs n’ jeans and leave the wannabes for Doug and Liz’s …. Great Glenorchy Alpine Base Camp for a stayover!
The family “gang” is pretty tough cookies on the slopes. Strong and fearless On or off-piste and a 3-generation mix of diverse global skiing. Best trick of the week was from Osca, who was ‘pinged’ and then warned by Ski Patrol for skiing too fast through the SLOW signs! Cheers for the Beers, Bro. $$$
The deck at Coronet Peak is a great social meeting place and the staff making coffees, hot chocolates, tasty fast foods, and pulling pints… Thank you.
On the last night of our rowdy family ski week, we all went down to the bulging ” World BAR” Pub to enjoy the premier showing of FICKLE BUSINESS. A “Locals” movie production of Free Style Skiing in the club fields west of Christchurch. It was well produced, and after the applause and much back slapping, the party got into serious FUN and debauchery. (they know how to party down south) and we only lost one “missing in action”. Harry…again?
END.
Not quite…many thanks to Tracy (mum, mumsy) and the stylish and tolerant Mel. ( a very cool snowboarder ) for steadying the team for the week.